Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi

Does anyone know the size of socket needed for the massive nut that holds the steering wheel on?


Luke

Pop it with a chisel and a wee heavy hammer.......

I use a 34 mm thin walled 1/2" drive socket.
Regards
Declan

The proper size is 3/4 Whit

Full marks Rasputin for getting the correct answer. Refering to the M1000 wheel of course, the Series MM/2 has a different size nut for which I need a box spanner of unknown size from my top tool draw

I thought the correct size (for the Minor 1000) was 1 5/16" AF ?? Most nuts have had a bang with a chisel at some point - and so the socket won't go on anyway!

The nut is much bigger than 3/4. I popped the horn out and the plate under it and there is this massive nut to undo.

Might try the chisel

It's OK saying what it isn't, but why not measure it to see what it actually is?

I'm guessing you didn't check just how big a 3/4 whit (7/8" BSF) nut is: it's 1.300 inches across the flats, a bit smaller than 1 5/16" A/F, in turn smaller than 34mm (1.339").

If it's already been butchered by someone with a shovel and a coal hammer, you may need to resort to the same methods, but please then clean up the damaged nut and use the correct socket to refit it.

Kevin

" someone with a shovel and a coal hammer "

Glad someone has a bit of finesse Kevin!!

Lukus1 wrote:The nut is much bigger than 3/4. I popped the horn out and the plate under it and there is this massive nut to undo.

The nut is 3/4 Whit, not 3/4 A/F.
I am guessing that you have not got a 3/4 Whit. socket

I will measure it at the weekend but it is much bigger than 1.3 inches. I have a 3/4 whit socket and it doesnt get close.

Well - that should be the size. But it matters not to the chisel. One pop and it's off. Almost certainly it will already carry some battle scars !

Get the correct socket, done and dusted

Please encourage good engineering practice

All the best engineers I know have a good selection of chisels and a range of hammers in their bags! Seriously - buying a socket just for this simple job is not justified...... In addition - heaving away at this nut with a socket and T bar is not easy to do and hold the steering steady while doing so. Short sharp blow from the hammer - and it's spinning off! And as ever I will add the caution note - leave the nut screwed on the last couple of threads as you tug the wheel up on the splines - to prevent it jumping up and hitting you in the face !

How do you tighten it up?

Sharp pop the other way.......... Spot of Loctite on the threads if nervous.

bmcecosse wrote:heaving away at this nut with a socket and T bar is not easy to do and hold the steering steady while doing so. And as ever I will add the caution note - leave the nut screwed on the last couple of threads as you tug the wheel up on the splines - to prevent it jumping up and hitting you in the face !

You can sometimes get hurt in the earlier stage I was using a 7/8Whit box spanner & tommy bar on my S11 steering wheel & as it eventually suddenly came loose the box spanner sprang up & knocked me out cold - at least I got the wheel off though

Correct size for socket/spanner is MM/S11 7/8 whit & M1000 3/4 Whit

Rog

Thanks for the size of the Series MM nut. I just rifled through my draw of box spanners until I found one that fits.
There is no need to do the nut up so tight that you injure yourself undoing it, a tommy bar through the box spanner then pull it against the spokes is quite adequate to undo it.

bmcecosse wrote:Sharp pop the other way.......... Spot of Loctite on the threads if nervous.

Here's a question---if you had the correct socket to hand and also a hammer and nice chisel, what would you use?