Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi there, recently brought a 1964 Morris 1000 saloon that hadnt turned a wheel since 1996. I'm 'told' it ran perfectly untill being parked up, anyway I have got it now and in the slow process of rebuilding it.
I've stripped it somewhat and am now in the process of trying to get it running. I wanted to do this so I dont clean and paint up a duffer engine. Anyhow I digress, basically I have got the fuel side running, there is fuel in the float, and the fuel pump is bringing the fuel through, I even took the carb off after cranking it over and the inlet manifold hole is wet with fuel. My problem is I have no spark. I have replaced the plugs for new ones, changed the leads and dizzy cap from a side exit cap to a brand new push fit cap with brand new leads, a brand new rotor arm and new condensor, I've only cleaned the points as the screw is quite badly rounded off. I've checked the gap on the points and this ok at 0.30mm. I've also replaced the coil for a brand new push fit one. As far as I can see all connections are on with me having to replace one spade connector that was knackered. I still have no spark though.
With a multimeter I have checked I have 12v across the battery, 12v from the battery to the starter switch, also have checked with the ignition on, I have checked I have 12v at the coil on the spade terminals. I seem to loose power after the coil. Could the dizzy itself be at fault? Could something have stopped working with its long layup that is now causing the Morris not to fire? Is it worth replacing the dizzy? Any advice would be gratefully appreciated!

0.30 millimetres is equivalent to 0.0118

They should be 15 thou .38mm it seems.

Are the plugs wet with petrol?

The fault obviously IS in the dizzy...... Look for incorrectly fitted points/condenser/low volts wire. And -it's 'never' the coil.....

Ignition on: measure the voltage at the coil terminal that connects to the distributor (or at the distributor if accessible)

With the points open, it should read battery voltage, about 12v. With the points closed, it should drop to zero, because closing the points connects it to earth. You should be able to turn the engine over slowly by hand watching the voltage rise and fall.

Does it?

Let us know, and we'll take it from there.

Kevin

autolycus wrote:Ignition on: measure the voltage at the coil terminal that connects to the distributor (or at the distributor if accessible)

With the points open, it should read battery voltage, about 12v. With the points closed, it should drop to zero, because closing the points connects it to earth. You should be able to turn the engine over slowly by hand watching the voltage rise and fall.

Does it?

Let us know, and we'll take it from there.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, will definatly try this and let you know .....

Many thanks for all the other reponses. I wouldn't say the plugs are wet with fuel but they certainly smell of fuel and are a bit damp after an attempt to start the car. I would have expected them to be a little more damp but if the fuel is getting in via the inlet manifold then surely its reaching the plugs or am I wrong?

Yes - you should concentrate on getting a spark!

Are you familiar with points? That is, are you getting on a bit?
If it is the first time you have changed points it is easy to get the wires and washers in the wrong order.

EDIT
Sorry, just re-read that you have only cleaned & checked the points. I think you need to get that screw renewed and a new set of points if they are pitted.

beero wrote:Are you familiar with points? That is, are you getting on a bit?
If it is the first time you have changed points it is easy to get the wires and washers in the wrong order.

EDIT
Sorry, just re-read that you have only cleaned & checked the points. I think you need to get that screw renewed and a new set of points if they are pitted.

Hi, I'm not that familiar with points no sadly, most of the cars I work on have electronic ignition or no dizzy. Is there a diagram on this site that I can refer to, cause I have changed the condenser and embarrasingly I am not 100% that I have put the washers & wires back in the correct order .

The effect of the top hat washers is to isolate the moving point from the base plate while connecting it to the condenser and points wire.

Well detailed in the workshop manual.....

Thanks for everyones help and advice! Changed the points and a little tinkering to the the float chamber cut off, and he runs!! First time in nearly 17 years! Sounds sweet as a nut. Very chuffed indeed

Nice job, treat yourself to the beverage of your choice

Well done, what a good feeling, eh?

beero wrote:Well done, what a good feeling, eh?

MarkyB wrote:Nice job, treat yourself to the beverage of your choice

I did, a nice beer went down very well that evening

Its a great feeling. That 'car' I'd been taking apart and had to roll onto the trailer now actually runs. Next job is to it give a small test drive around the close. Thinking of leaving the engine in situ to hand paint it the BMC green cause with all the ancilleries and bulkhead stripped and removed their is soooo much room to do things like this. Its a big headache out the way to know its a perfectly serviceable engine though!