Morris Minor Owners Club

hi all,

Im after advice on how to approach the restoration on the roof of my van, the van has had almost all the rain channels removed and pieces have been rivited in to rejoin the roof. so should i take the top roof section off and repair the top of the body sides all around then deal with the roof or is it better to leave it on?

I look forward to the replies, thanks

Nick,

I removed the roof on my van to repair the flanges on top of the sides also the guttering. The roof was dented and easier to deal with off the van. There are professional restorers who advise against this, with good reason----distortion! When welding the gutters to the removed roof and indeed when replacing the curved sections of same, there can be a reshaping of the roof profile, which in turn can lead to trouble maintaining equal roof 'overhang' etc when refitting. I felt I had no alternative as things were so bad and was concerned about getting at all the rust between the layers of metal. You seem to be in a similar position, think about it, but be prepared for some serious work if you go down this road. I might have a few pics if you need.

As a 'profesional restorer' I always take the roof panel off to give access for making a proper job of the the tops of the van sides, fit the new guttering and then repair the roof edge. The van body is unlikely to distort, especially if its still on the chassis or if the lower parts (floors and crossmembers) are still intact. If the roof edge is bad, keep tryign it on the body as you remake the edges to ensure it still fits.
Not the easiest bodywork job, but straight forward if approached logically.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Iain, it was Mtr restorations who suggested keeping the roof on to repair, (pictures on their website) however I felt my roof and sides were so bad that I went the 'roof off' route--- much the same as your good self! I can see the wisdom of leaving it on, regarding the risk of mis-alighnment and distortion, but wondered if it might be awkward to weld properly, as there are, in effect, three layers of metal to deal with, side flange--gutter--roof.

Basically if I was only doing part of the roof guttering ie a localised repair, say less then half of it, I'd leave it on. But really if part of it is bad, there's rust in the join all the way round and its a more thorough job to fetch it all off. Really down to the person doing the job and what they are happiest with. No reason why you can't work methodically all the way round doing it piece by piece, but I find it a lot easier and quicker to take the top off.... The roof panel is a big unweildy floppy thing when off but it always flops back into shape with little persuasion.
I find it easiest to spot weld the new guttering strips to the repaired tops of the van sides (careful measuremments and trying the roof panel on quite often) and then spot weld the roof to the new guttering. I ground a set of spot weld tips down to a flat point to weld in the guttering lip, but no reason why plug welding with a MIG can't be used if you don't have a spot welder.
I find small pieces of round bar that sit in the guttering useful for clamping the roof back on without squashing the gutter lip - ie: clamp onto the round bar in the guttering channel to pull it all down.

I hadn't considered welding the gutter to the sides first, wish I had as that way you can weld in stages. Oh well next time!! As if there ever will be!!!!!!!!!

Yes, know what you mean. think I've done 4 or 5 now with two more inthe workshop waiting the same treatment and its still not a job I look forward to.... I did think about welding the gutter to the roof first, but as you say, it may not end up the same curve as the van sides. My main reason for not doing it that way, was I couldn't think of an easy way to then weld the roof/gutter assembly to the van body. the spot welder wouldn't have fitted in from the inside without some cunningly shaped tips, though i've since heard of someone who bolted it on! Ok you'd see lots of little bolt heads on the inside flange, but at least it could be unbolted for future rust prevention. I guess thats what you do if fitting a GRP roof too.

Funny you should say that Iain, now you've heard of a second person to bolt the roof on! As you say welding the gutter to the roof first presents a problem when it comes to welding to the sides and if I'd done a bit more thinking may well have used your method. However I am pleased with the finished job using non setting mastic as a seal before clamping with m6 x 20 shallow headed cap screws.

sounds and looks a neat job. There's many ways to achieve the end result!

wow thanks one and all, ive been away for a few days and was surprised with all the tips pictures and advice. i will be taking the roof off. it sounds like the best way to go, i also like the idea of bolting the roof back on. lots more pictures would be very much appreciated.

again thank you all

nick

Just wondered can you get repair panels for the roof edges, or for the rear above the doors.

Nick

Yes you can!

http://fairmilerestorations.co.uk/pages/minor.php

again thanks so much, would it be better to fit the van body work onto a chassis or does it make no difference. I just need to get the cash together to buy all the panels.


cheers

Nick

N.Daynes wrote:again thanks so much, would it be better to fit the van body work onto a chassis or does it make no difference. I just need to get the cash together to buy all the panels.


cheers

Nick

If the body is strong enough, round the bottom edge, ie: the crossmembers, floors and lower sides, it will stand on a level floor and be fine to remove the roof. If its a bit creaky, you could do the lower repairs first or ideally leave it on the chassis cab that you are going to use and then its certain to fit. (Keep the back doors on too, then any lozenging can be easily spotted and corrected). Only drawback doing it on the chassis, is its not too easy to get round the front, over the back of the cab. I get round it by using an original chassis, cut down with a dummy cab rear crossmember to support the front of the body. Its good for buildign up pickup backs on too, but its better still to use thga actual vehicle it'll be fitted to.