Morris Minor Owners Club

Looking for a bit of advice yet again, I have no ignition light when I switch the key on, very faint on tick over and increasing in brightness with increased revs. Amp meter is saying no charge, however it is showing drain with lights etc. This issue began a after a long run a few weeks ago, I had the dynamo out prior to the run and released the brushes that were jammed in their holders. Thinking control box but would like some thoughts before I start tinkering.
Thanx

Control box rarely gives issues unless messed with. I would go back to the dynamo and check the comutator ring is clean and that the brushes are actually being pushed into the comutator, ie springs in good order and the wires to the brushes intact....
If you put a volt meter across the battery terminals does it show any charge going into the battery?

Dynamo problem - the 'no red light when you switch on' is a bit unusual - but I suggest it's something to do with the brushes you disturbed !!

Turned out to be the control box, swapped dynamo, falt remained the same, changed control box and problem solved. Still don't know what the problem is with the box tho, there is nothing obvious, looks in better condition than the new old one I replaced it with.

Maybe the points just needed cleaning?

Hello, been a while since I posted on here.

I'm having the same problem with my car. I am getting no IGN light when I turn the key and just a faint glow when the engine is running. I don't currently (no pun intended) own a multi-meter so have been unable to do any checks regarding charging etc. I have replaced the battery with a new one, needed replacing anyway and the car has an alternator. Car seems to run ok otherwise. Any advice much appreciated.

Do the headlights get brighter when you rev up from idle? And is the fan belt good and tight?

had the same problem with my alternator,just dim with ign on and no charge,tested with diferent alternator and got bright ign when switched on, wrong fitting, so bought new rectifier and control unit from E bay and rebuilt old one.Would suggest its the control unit inside the alt,very easy to change,if your unsure have a look on U tube simple to do,on the lucas ACR ,which is more than likeky what you have, and costs about £10,just screws in. The rectifier requires soldering in but again very simpleto do.Any alternator will do to test so long as it has the same three pin fitting,or just fit a known good secondhand one,when I enquired about a recon from the motor factors £90 Aparently they know that the old type lucas and becoming a bit rare.