Morris Minor Owners Club

Those of you who've seen my recent posts will have heard me complaint of two things:
1. Low oil pressure and
2. A ticking noise coming from the engine.

Today I set off for Lincoln Autojumble at a steady 50-55 MPH, managed to get to Huddersfield when the oil pressure dropped and performance lowered, then a steady hammering grew louder and louder, oil light on constantly at any speed.

Engine runs but it sounds like a blacksmiths' in full swing.

So what do you think?

Oh dear. Assuming you still have a sump full of oil then it does sound as if the big ends have gone or the oil pump has died.

Either way it sounds bad. I think it's time for a strip down

Oh dear indeed. The low oil pressure was apparent when I bought it but I didn't realise the extent until I fitted a gauge. The noise wasn't worryingly obvious until today.

I check the oil level all the time and topped up before I set off.

It has covered 88,400 miles so it just naturally expired.

Yep - You have a knackered 803

Don't run it -it will just throw a rod. Good time to upgrade to a 948 - or a 1098 - or a 1275!

As 1098s are so common are they a direct replacement - can it bolt straight onto the 803 gearbox? Will make those ratios feel even worse I know, and I would have to take it easy to avoid strain.

The 1098 onto a 803 gearbox can be done but it does place even more strain on what is already a weaker box at the best of times. Better to use the 948 engine and box as I described in your other post. Much more durable as you are using the stronger internals of the 948 box which was made to manage the extra power of the engine. I know you like to keep things original so using the 948 will allow you to keep a smooth case gearbox as opposed to the ribbed (for extra strength - not pleasure ) box of the 1098

Thanks for confirming that.

Yes I like my cars original - I see that as the whole point of owning this particular model of car. Gives you the full experience, including ruined big ends .

All I want is a stop-gap engine whilst the 803 is repaired. As you can understand I don't want to be changing gearboxes and axles too.

I think there will be enough expense sourcing parts and labour for the 803 rebuild without buying and fitting g.boxes and axels...

As long as the 1098 will fit I will do that as they are more plentiful in good condition.

One thing's for damn sure.... it's no Javelin.

Well, to be honest, none of the swaps are completely trouble free. For me it would be one of 3 choices - depending on how much work you want to or are prepared to do. Listed in order of simplicity:

1. Find a replaceent 803 engine to mate to your existing gearbox. No need to change anything else and all instruments will read as they should. 803 engines are not easy to find but not impossible.
2. Fit 948 engine to your existing box and drive carefully - or fit 948 box too with 803 gearlever extension to keep car looking original
3. Fit 1098 engine to 803 box or 1098 gearbox - there will need to be some modifications if you want to fit the 803 box to the 1098 and you risk knackering the 803 box as well if you do it. As I said, it CAN be one but it isn't the most popular or easiest job to do.

Options 2 and 3, if using the 948 or 1098 box will need a later diff and you will need a different speedo as Mike has indicated.

Personally, I wouldn't do the 1098 onto the 803. I would do either option 1 or put the 948 engine onto an 803 as a simple temporary fix. It uses the same size clutch as the 803 (1098 is bigger) and is just simpler all round.

Good for you! Stick with the 803 and enjoy classic early 50's motoring

First of all I would like to say thanks for all the advice, and I have thought about what I'm going to do. I will put in another 803 to get me mobile again, and whilst that is running well keep an eye out for a 948, gearbox and 4.55 diff, to be upgraded later on when I go touring and need to travel at sustained high speeds.

So I have sourced a good 803 and when we got it home with the help of an experienced friend we began stripping it down and cleaning it. The following photos show the bores, cylinders, valves etc after we'd cleaned them but there is still some work to do, like grinding in the valves and putting it all back together.
We took the sump off, cleaned the tar out of the bottom, inspected the big ends for play and cleaned the gunk out of the crankcase, then fitted new sump gaskets.
Opened the tappet chest and cleaned in there aswell.
We decarbonized the head which was badly caked in soot and carbon, cleaned the valves, ports, carefully scraped the old head gasket off the block and head and went round it with a wire brush drill attachment.

The following photos show the work so far. The bores and pistons appear to be STD, and the piston crowns are stamped 'MOWOG' and a '2' inside a diamond which matches the very same stamped into block by each bore.

All there is left to do is grind in the valves (2 down, 6 to go), clean it again and reassemble the whole lot. Then take out the duff engine and fit this one.

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

I apologise for the lack of close-ups but my camera just will not do them.

Looking good -but PLEASE fit a modern oil pump! The 803 pump is a crude flappy blade thing. And I would pop the timing cover off - and fit at least a new chain (and rubbers) , possible crank sprocket too if very sharp teeth.

Can I obtain an improved 803 oil pump?

No - you fit a 948/1098 oil pump. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR- ... 256e3eba5f

Okies - thanks for that.

Not bad prices on that site! I haven't seen it before - he has the chain kit and the 803 filter too!

Ordered! Plus some other sundries - there goes the peanut budget out of the window.

The old oil pump will be looked at we'll see how good it is although mine, a late Series II, had a Hobourn-Eaton pump.

Have bought loads of parts for my morris from them including an unleaded head. always been good quality. highly recommended.

" Unleaded head " oh dear.......

UPDATE.

Today I got round to taking the old lump to pieces, took the head off, ancillaries and sump, but blow me if I can get the big ends off! The workshop manual simply says: 'unlock and remove the big-end bolts'. Haha very funny I cannot get them to budge for love nor money.

What tools will I need to get them off? All I have are sockets and spanners which have done absolutely every job up to now.

There have been a few unpleasant surprises so far! (Tell you later )

Here are some photos of the disgraced, 88k mile lump:[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

It's hard to believe that something so small and simple will power a car for tens of thousands of miles.