Morris Minor Owners Club

OK while I'm waiting for shoes and gaskets and seals for my rear end I am attempting to replace the oil in my rear dampers. The front ones went fine as some one could bounce the car up and down to release air trapped inside the damper as I refilled it. The back ones will be more difficult.The arm that is connected to the chassis has a pin where it joins the damper arm. Can I drive the damper arm off this pin or the connecting arm off the pin or is there some use of Dark Arts involved I will remove the dampers to change the oil in them,reading the workshop manual they seem to come off the car by magic!

The bit I am having trouble seperating is the "elbow", is this a tapered bolt? The castle nut holding the arm to the chassis doesn't look to have a split pin,could this be right?

Oddbod,
It is probably easier not to separate the arm. Just remove the whole lot it at the bush to the chassis leg and you may need to replace those bushes anyway.
Regards
Declan

Done it! I left the elbow intact and took the castle nut off the captive bolt in the chassis. This SHOULD have split pin,but didn't on mine,disintegrated I reckon.Can I replace this Castle Nut with a Nylock? The oil in the rear dampers can only be described as stinky black water! Am I right in thinking the oil in the dampers starts off thick,and is then "ripped" at a molecular level and so thins with usage? Cheers Declan, I am starting (I hope) to realise which bits don't need stripping,and which do.

Glad you got it sorted.
Nyloc will be fine.
Regards
Declan

Oh yes - it certainly gets 'ripped' and usually smells horribly of 'fish'.... Flush through with new oil a couple of times. Note that one of the rear dampers can be filled easily on the car - the filler plug is at the top. The other can also be done simply by loosening both fixing bolts and then removing one allowing the damper to pivot round till the filler is at the top.

Yeah I was considering doing the dampers in situ,but as its on axle stands at the rear anyway, because I need to replace the hub seals, I figured I could mess with the dampers easier on my bench and "bounce" the old oil and flush and refill with new sae.30. My local hire shop sells sae.30 oil.I dont think the dampers have been looked at for a very long time so I cleaned them up amd copper slipped the bolts. I guess I dont tighten it all up til its back on the ground? I haven't driven the Moggie ( we are going to name the car over Easter)sice doing the front dampers,but its MUCH stiffer to bounce down now so I hope that adds to what is a surprisingly pleasant driving experience. Just hoping the bits come from ESM tomorrow.