Morris Minor Owners Club

I've just ordered some Dynax S50 to protect the cavities. I plan to do the chassis legs, sills rear arches from boot and under rear seat.
Are there any other areas I should do?

Are all areas accessible without drilling holes?

Thanks for any replies.

All areas should be accessible without drilling holes. Remove the carpets (if you dare) and squirt a bit in each hole, as you go along. Turn the nozzle around inside the cavity to get maximum coverage. Don't spray too much in as this can do more harm than good. You only really want a light covering in cavities, as you can always redo later.

Underneath, there is no point spraying wax if it is already rusty. If old underseal is present, you MUST scrape all this off and start from scratch. Underseal does hide rust and is not the best rust prevention available these days.

Any rusty areas should be scraped back with a wire brush and treated with Kurust, then given several coats of primer and chassis paint.

I have recently bought some stuff called POR 15, which seems fairly heavy duty and is directly applied to rusty areas. I'm doing my floorpans with it when I finish stripping off the underseal.

A word of caution: ensure the sill, wing and all other chassis drain holes are clear after you've finished rust-proofing. You can do this by sticking a pen knife blade up and wiggling it about.

As well as the good advice above, I take out a front door hinge bolt and blast into this cavity. If its a four door, take out a rear door hing bolt, and blast into there too. Make sure you put the bolt back in and tighten up, don't do a Dean and pop to the shed with it in your hand, on the way back pop to the toilet, wash hands, grab a biscuit, put the kettle on, pick nose. Then go back to the car with a cup of tea and go... hmmm where did I leave that bolt.... Later you jump into bed and sit on the bleeder.

Sound advice Dean, I'd forgotten about the door posts, where most of the water and dirt gets thrown up!

Not sure bout taking the nut and bolt to bed with you though... I know we love our cars, but there's a line.

In the boot there is access to the cavity where the rear spring hanger bolts go through. I sprayed waxoyl in here and it came out at the rear of the sills.
I ended up drilling holes anywhere I found there was a cavity and then plugging with a rubber grommet after spraying waxoyl in.

As said, do inside the A pillars and B pillars via hinge bolt holes. I would also remove the glove boxes and if you feel to the side you can get to the top of the inside of the box section formed by the inner wing and the kidney panel. This is a seperate area to the hinge pillar. I would also dynax inside the doors at the bottom and if it is a saloon, inside the double skin at the bottom of the boot lid. and front crossmember between the chassis legs as well.