A newbie,but oldie! + 2013 UPDATE!!

[Pilkie]

Hi all.

I am a newbie to this forum but a classic car using oldie.
I passed my test in 1977 in a 1960 4 door blue Morris 1000,,,514 RPD
1st car was a brown and mustard 1962 2 door,280 EYD?
Drive a 1971 Rover P6V8,thats been my daily for the last 12yrs,and have a 1970 TR6.
Restored both cars myself.

I've been using,restoring,and working on classic cars for the last 37yrs mainly british.

Just been given to try and save a 1961 grey 2 door, 86 CAX
Runs sweet,red leather int quite good,but a bit of rust!

And am hopefully about to buy a June 1969 trafalgar blue convertible AGP 961G that is an aborted resto but with LOTS!! of work already done.
ie; body and underside sorted,new paint,new leather int,carpets,door cards,hood and frame.

I am trying to make sure it is a genuine convertible,and as far as I can tell it is,but the only id plate I can see on it reads 1246644,I can't make out the start of it.
All being well I will be buying the sellers other aborted classic as well,a low miles 1976 Triumph Stag.
Body and underside sorted and repainted.


My question to those in the know???
How can I be sure this is a 100% original convertible?
If you can tell from the info given,that would be great!!

Best Regards Dave,,,aka Pilkie

[brucek]

Welcome to the Forum, Dave

Looks like you have restored some nice cars there!

As for the geninue convertible, the key is in the prefix to the chassis number. For a late 1000 convertible, the letters should be MAT 5 and then the chassis number itself. M = Morris, A = A series, T = Tourer/Convertible, 5 = 1098cc engine, D if present will indicate a deluxe spec. If you have a converted saloon, the chassis number would read MA2S 5(D) - the 2S referring to a 2 door saloon.

Just check on your V5 for confirmation. Hope it's a genuine one you've got and look forward to seeing a few photo's of your restoration as it progresses!

[Pilkie]

Hi brucek

Took chassis number conv and 2 door id details with me to check,but the ally plate is unreadable.
I didnt check the stamped in chassis number,as forgot to check the location.
The main thing is checking for the original structural strengthening points,and spotting any tell tale signs of a chopped down saloon,as id plates are easy to change!
Have got a list of few things ive noted to look out for.
Dont know if its std or been done,but the top rail of the rear side windows is chrome,so was originally or has been chromed at some point!
Maybe on a deluxe version?
Am having a good read on the forum about what to look for,so any tips,pointers,pictures, gratefully accepted,as would prefer to get an original convertible.

Regards Dave
PS!!!!!
Ive just noticed this pic I took shows the triangular strengthening plates.

[brucek]

Hi Dave,

Yes the chassis number (number only) will be pressed into the bulkhead and this should tally with the number on your V5. If you need to know where this number is located, drop me a pm with your e mail address and I'll send you a photo. Just looking at the photo above, the dash layout is that of a pre-64 car - i.e the flat dash panel, earlier type fresh air heater and gold faced 90mph speedo. However, the tandem wipe windscreen wipers show that this is almost certainly a post-64 model. The later dash should have a black faced speedo, the later type switches, aluminium trim panel with chromed end plates and curved glove box on passenger side and open cubby on the drivers.

The rear side window tops (and the main door tops as well ) would originally have been painted body colour but I think the early MM convertibles had the stainless tops.The stainless tops are hard to find but more practical to live with as the hood doesn't scratch the paint when being raised or folded down. Replacing the painted main door tops with ones from a traveller is a popular mod.

The main strength panels unique to convertibles are the triangular panels that you can see in your photo plus additional strengthening at the foot of each B pillar. Extra strengthening was also built into the sill area adjacent to the boxing plates but this is not easy to spot from the outside.

Try looking at the ally plate from behind - it might allow you to see the numbers etc in reverse. Also worth looking to see if the car has holes for the courtesy light switch in the A post - these were blanked off by a rubber grommet on convertibles but there is usually a switch (looks like a big X head screw with a plunger in the middle) on the saloon. Screen tops should be spot welded which is another clue.

Last convertible produced had a chassis number of 1254328 and was built on 10/06/69, so your number would at least be consistent with the period of production.

Good luck with your search - let us know how you get on.

Bruce

[Pilkie]

Hi all.

Am going over to the car tomorrow for a better investigation,and to read the stamped in chassis number,as its highly likely that he has got the chassis plates muddled up.

I went for a quick look today,but the light was fading and its a bit dark in the barn,but looking at the other cars he has I am pretty sure it was likely built in 1964 during the changeover/upgrades.

Good and bad news.

The car has been sold to a guy who also bought a corvette as well and had ££££, notes in his pocket!
It is a 1964 car but it is a fake convertible!

On the whole good news,as I found out before buying it!

Now what to do with the 1961 2 door in the garage?
Sell it on as a nice starter project,sell for spares or weld it up to MOT pass standard then sell it as a rolling resto??
The reg 86 HUX,,once the car is MOT'd has to be worth a few quid if sold!!
The engine runs well,drives on and off my ramp,all elecs seem to work.
Body pretty good,red leather seats good.

If anyone in the southwest wants to come and look and make a decent offer,,,PM me..

NOW SOLD!!!

[Pilkie]

Hi again.
Bit of an update on whats been going on over the last year!
After I sold the 1961 2 door,I was lucky enough to find at the guy who had the fake conv,and the stag,a genuine 1954 MG TF1500!
This I bought and have spent the last year doing a nut and bolt restoration.
Heres a pic of its arrival in March 2012

This is mid resto.
I took the chassis back to bare metal and stonechipped and repainted it myself and all running gear restored with new rubbers and bushes.

This is 1 wk after it was finished and winning best sports car in show.


The only thing I didnt do was paint it!!
I stripped it to its parts and bare metalled the body,did the ash framework,trimmed it,wired it,brakes,engine etc,and reassembled it.
Now it has been sold to make way for a new project,and here it is.
1964 1 family owned Morris 1000 traveller.

I will start a post in restoration projects asap.
See you there.
Cheers Dave

[beero]

Wow Pilkie, you've got it bad!
I showed your post to my wife to show it is NORMAL to have more than one classic car! She thinks I'm mad having two.

[stag36587]

My wife is very supportive that I have two......unlike my last wife. That tells it's own story really.

[Pilkie]

I dont have a wife!

[Matt]

Don't worry...

Just tell her that I have

a '63 Convertable
a '67 Traveller
a '71 Pickup
a '67 Austin Healy Sprite
a '68 Austin Healy Sprite
a '72 Mini Clubman
a '82 Mini HL
a '95 Ford Transit LWB
a '96 Ford Transit SWB
and a Daily driver ('2000 Focus)..

Only the last 3 are road legal at the moment! The others all need a lot of work

[Pilkie]

If anyone knows of,or happens to have,any of the following,then please PM or E me!!
A good running,complete 1098 engine,with or without gearbox.
Nice set of traveller seats and panel trim in grey or red. Leather would be nice!
Any wood sections.
NOS or excellent wings.
Anything else you may have?

Cheers Dave