Morris Minor Owners Club

Where does the wires run for the traFficators?
Under the car, under the rug, come back from the rear or some where else?
I have been asked this question several times from different people here in the USA..
My car does not have trafficators so i have no idea of the correct answer.
So out of curiosity i thought i would ask the group seeing they were installed on UK cars..

Thanks for your time & help,

Vigil
FV, CA

I guess in the roof - but I'm sure someone who really knows will be along in a minute!

bmcecosse wrote:I guess in the roof - but I'm sure someone who really knows will be along in a minute!

Wouldn't work on a convertible

So I would suggest the floor somewhere as they would have kept the wiring run the same across the range surely?

On the two door the trafficator wires run from the main loom where it enters the boot (trunk) from underneath the car. The right trafficator wire, green/white, runs over the rear wheel arch behind the trim panel, up the B post to the trafficator. The left trafficator wire, green/white, runs across the boot behind the seat and over the left wheel arch.
I am not sure about the four door, I should think that the wires go through the sills under the back doors and up the B posts to the higher positioned trafficators

I did wonder about the convertible......

mike.perry wrote:On the two door the trafficator wires run from the main loom where it enters the boot (trunk) from underneath the car. The right trafficator wire, green/white, runs over the rear wheel arch behind the trim panel, up the B post to the trafficator. The left trafficator wire, green/white, runs across the boot behind the seat and over the left wheel arch.

Worth knowing, but I need to add that my car was rebuilt using a late wiring loom (1967) when the cars didn't have trafficators so the OP needs to take that into account

I'm pretty certain my four door ones come from above. They don't come through from the boot as I stripped and renewed all that bit.

[quote="C6Dave] Worth knowing, but I need to add that my car was rebuilt using a late wiring loom (1967) when the cars didn't have trafficators so the OP needs to take that into account[/quote]
The wires for indicators would be part of the main loom and would separate at each corner of the car. The later wiring would also have provision for a flasher unit and warning light not found on trafficator wiring.

OK eventually decided to simply wire the trafficators separately for show day purposes and they work, but the warning light on the switch doesn't and I'm struggling to understand the wiring diagrams so can anyone help

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Semaphores work if wired:

3 = Live Ignition Feed

2 = Left Trafficator

5 = Right Trafficator

But no warning light

4 is common to 3 but looks like you have to put a wire between, but it works without doing that?

? + 1 are linked to what? - it looks like 5, the right Trafficator cable has to be looped across through ? to 1 - is that correct or can someone say how it should be wired

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Hello, yes that's right. I had the same questions a while ago. 3 and 4 should be linked together so they are both live - although it might be in the switch iteslf. That way when the roller contact on the arm goes left or right, it will always pick up a current from one or the other terminal. There should also be a connection between 5 and ? as the circuit diagram shows. In my switch its a stamped piece of brass sheet perfectly shaped to come out of the terminals in the correct position but a nice piece of wire will do just as well. Its quite a strange circuit and I had to look through a previous thread to remember what went on. Good luck. Cheers, Colin.

Thanks, Looked at the replacement switch and ? is actually stamped '6'

Put a wire between 5 - 6 but still no warning lamp

So what about between 6 - 1

The diagram looks like it's linked, but to me makes no sense or should '6' go to earth?

BTW 3-4 appear to be linked inside the switch itself as both sides work with the live feed only going to 3

If you still do not get a warning light with 5 & 6 connected then also connect 1 & 2. 1 & 6 are already linked internally
To wire the trafficators and indicators to the same switch use diagram http://seriesmm.mmoc.org.uk Tech Info Indicator/trafficator wiring diagram

Thanks Mike, now working.

For anyone else reading this then it's wired as follows for independent Semaphore trafficators (not wired to 'flashers').

Contact 3. Live Ignition Feed.

Contact 5. Out to Right Trafficator ad looped to 6 (? in diagram)

Contact 2. Out to Left Trafficator and looped to 1

Trafficators work and warning lamp glows when left or right selected.

Not the best Photoshop in the world but should make things clearer

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Good job I'll make a note of the diagram for reference as I am still on trafficators (2 door).

As an aside, it might be worth checking the wattage of bulbs you all have fitted, as mine were hopeless 3-watt. Also, if one is sticking in operation it might just need a light oiling with an old paintbrush, as per the handbook.

There's something everyone's missed about this setup. There is no earth/chassis to this plastic-bodied switch. So how does the tell-tale bulb ever light up?
The answer lies in the internal, unseen linking.
5 indeed goes to 6 via a visible strap.
And 4 goes to 3 out of sight.
You can wire these as well, but there's no point, unless the switch is duff.
The clever bit is that 6 goes to 1 (invisibly) and 1 goes to the pip on the bulb via the sprung blade.
And (as no-one seems to have clocked) 2 goes to the inset brass collar of the bulb holder.
This means that when either 2 or 5 get volts sent to them, current flows throughthe bulb to the UNSELECTED trafficator. I've not measured it yet, but presumably there is enough of a path to chassis through this unused trafficator to light the bulb, but not activate that trafficator; but maybe just a twitch?
The upshot of this is that if the bulb doesn't light, it probably means the OPPOSITE trafficator has got a fault or wiring problem. Counter-intuitive or what?
This also accounts for why a standard 12V 3W bulb is dimmer than you would expect; it never actually gets as much as 12V across it!
The bulb (being incandescent) is not worried by the fact the electricity flows in different directions depending if you've indicated left or right. This gives rise to the possibility of fitting a bi-colour, bidirectional LED. This would require replacing the red lens cap with a colourless one. I reckon the LEDs might not need the usual series resistor, as the unused traficator might be the near enough the right value. Both LED and resistor (if needed) would of course have to be mechanically adapted into the standard bulb base.
I might just try this on my current project and will post back here with the results.

Sounds like a great deal of trouble for no gain. As long as everything is working be happy!

On the MM tourer the trafficator wires run from the rear loom on R.H. side of boot back inside the top of the wheel arches and inside the sill then up to each trafficator. Has any one noticed the boot lids on the earlier cars are much heavier than the Minot 1000s?

Same with the S.II, the boot is very heavy. They must've used much thicker steel in the post-war years.

Export or Die. If you used more steel in the car production then you could export more steel without producing more cars.

Ehhhhh???