Water pump gasket

[rjt1951]

Hi,
Noticed water dripping on the floor this morning from front of engine. After a clean up underneath found it seemed to be comming from under water pump where it joins the engine block. removed rad, fan blades etc and then pump. Although the gasket is in one piece there is a ridge along one edge as if it was not seated well so have removed and cleaned up faces of pump and block. New gasket on the way from the brilliant ESM people.
Question- do I fit the new gasket dry or use a sealer as well and could it be water has come from elsewhere on the pump? it is impossible to see, had to find the water leak by feel and felt sure it was the gasket. Just before I put it all back together I wanted to ask advise from all you experts. Am fine with bodywork but engines not so great!
Thanks

[xpress]

i would just make sure gasket surfaces are very straight, use a sharp scraper to clean the old gasketry off and maybe a very light sandpaper (800) and just use the gasket and a torque wrench. the gasket and the torque should do the work and should last years and years. i personally wouldn't use any sort of gasketry cement unless necessary.

[rjt1951]

Thanks, I will do as you suggest. Just hope it is ony the gasket that was at fault. excuse my lack of knowledge but under the pump there is a small square hole towards the front is this a breather for the pump bearing or for lubrication?

[bmcecosse]

The most likely source of leak would be the bypass hose. Be sure to fit a new solid wall pipe - not the ghastly convoluted pipe some places sell..... And - BMC didn't use gasket goo - so neither should you!

[rjt1951]

Thanks for that, have ordered a new pipe anyway just to be safe but could see no leak from it.

[xpress]

yep, i used a dark blue silicon bypass hose replacement from ESM, oh if that bearing's gone, water will drip out of there, happened to mine. you can go so far just topping it up then eventually the whole thing will burst somewhere due to the pressure.

[rjt1951]

After your final remark have decided to invest in a new pump as well just in case. I worry that the barings may be warn as I can detect a tiny bit of movement. Could not bear it after putting it all back together the problem was still there. If it is shot then water would run through that little square hole underneath and then back to the line where pump meets block and drip down. Thanks for the info.

[xpress]

np, just comes from horse sense. oh definitely would swap it out while it's off. they're only about 25 quid. this sort of thing seems scary at first but it should be fine, just don't over torque or snap those threads. let us know how you get on!

[rjt1951]

Thanks, it's on order tonight. Afraid don't have a torque rench which may be a crime worse than death so will take care and do up evenly. managed to undo existing pump with just a ring spanner and a little arm pressure!!

[bmcecosse]

May as well fit a new fan belt too - while in that area. You'll soon have a complete new car!

[xpress]

lol feels like it sometimes, the forth bridge no seriously, most of these cars are still running on original parts. amazing. so good to see them around the place, people enjoying them.

[rjt1951]

Funny you should say that, new fan belt ready and waiting!! Looks like thermo has been replaced not long ago so I will pass on that one. Will advise when it's all back together, it's a shame I have to work in between but it pays for the bits, should have shares in ESM I think.

[mike.perry]

You don't need a torque wrench for ordinary nuts and bolts. Spanners are designed the length they are so that you can only use a certain amount of leverage. Just tighten the nuts down with a sensible amount of force and that will be ok.

[rjt1951]

Well are you ready for the latest. Nice afternoon, all the bits here lets put it back together.
Had disconected the battery, removed dynamo, rad, hoses etc. Flushed rad and gave it a nice coat of matt black, all cleaned and put it back together. New pump went on OK, new hoses. Refilled rad, went to start car to get it ciculating and ready for a top up. Turned key and it just gave a sharp electrical sounding click! went to engine bay to find water more than dripping from rad at the bottom, not hose connection, the flush through must have dislodged the rot. So now I have a very clean and smart engine bay with a rad that needs replacing and for some reason a car that will not start!!! Deep breath, stay calm.....

[bmcecosse]

Hopefully you didn't try to undo the drain cock a doodle diddley in the rad..... And - is it the correct water pump? Does it turn freely??

[mike.perry]

Check the battery connections, solenoid and starter motor and earth strap connections.
Time for the starting handle

[rjt1951]

No did not toch anything on the rad and yes the pump runs freely. noticed when I took the rad out that there was some rust down the inside of the casing on one side as if there had been a problem before.

[rjt1951]

Battery connections good, will check the rest tomorrow evening,thanks. Just wierd that have never had this problem before and car was going a storm til I noticed the loss of water.

[rjt1951]

Have now checked all electrical contacts, cleane and made tight, checked gearbox to chas earth as well. Now just waiting for new rad to arrive and then we will try again. Sorry guess this should be in electrical section but noticed while checking and cleaning all contacts there is an un-attached wire, geen with purple stripe comes outof the loom near distributor, seems to have no home same colour wire is attached to the gen and nothing seems to be missing. Could it be a spare feed for something the car had in a former life?
Will advise when rad in and fingers crossed she starts. Thanks to all for there help and advise.

[bmcecosse]

You don't need a rad to start the engine and run it for 20 seconds - to see if that's all ok.......