Hi, I recently became the owner of a 1962 4 door in Almond Green,
the car is in absolutely excellenty condition and I would li9ke to keep it up to this standard.
I've noticed 2 small bubbles developing on one wing and I would like to get them before they grow into a problem.
I know little about bodywork, so any tips, infor or dats would be most gratefully received.
I've prepared the tools such as sandpaper, rust preventer paint and so on, but I am so very nervous about taking emery paper to the bodywork without first knowing what I'm doing.
ANY and all tips would be great.
Thankyou
Paint It Black!
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sloopjohnrb
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Cam
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A tip about the use of a reactive rust remedy such as Kurust.
I did an MGB and a mate of mine did a VW campervan, both the same way, sanded down to metal, treated with kurust sanded again, slight skim of filler, more sanding, few coats of primer, four coats of cellulose top.
Within 3 weeks, rust had bubbled through, much to my despair!!
What had happened was that although we waited many times the recommended time for the Kurust to do it's stuff it was STILL reacting after the sanding and the filler, causing the filler to crack and let moisture in thust causing more rust.
My mate still uses it but he scrubs it violently with white spirit before the filler to remove it.
I don't use it at all now but instead make I sure that I sand/grind ALL the rust out, even if it means carefully building areas up with small welds.
We now don't have a problem.
With regard to painting (presumably you are using aerosols) as long as you are careful it can produce surprisingly good results!
If you have applied any filler then you will have to sand it down in stages to get a good finish. I used 400, 800 and 1500 grit wet and dry (used it wet) in stages until you could not feel any join between the filler and the body / old paint, if you can feel a slight step then after the top coat of paint has dried you WILL see it!!!
Make sure that any filler you have sanded wet is totally dry and clean before spraying with primer, when you spray the primer use about 3 coats but make sure that you leave 15mins or more between coats and make sure that the coats are not too thick or the paint could wrinkle.
When spraying the top coat (colour) have a light shining along the surface of the panel so that you can see which areas are wet and which are dry, and when spraying move the can so that the areas are 'just' wet and overlap each other, this method avoids runs and rough patches.
When the complete area has been covered, wait until it is dry before the next coat or problems WILL occur!
I usually find that when I get to the stage of "that looks fine but I will give it just another coat" I usually make some cock a doodle diddley-up, so I tend to leave it now!!!
When you have finished, leave the paint for a few weeks, and then get some cutting compound (it has the consistancy of rough toothpaste) and give the paint a good rubbing to remove any 'orange-peel' effects, then after that a good polish and it should be OK!
It is more a case of practice, but don't panic if you get a sag or a run, finish the job, wait for a few weeks for the paint to harden and then with some careful sanding and 'cutting' it can usually be rectified.
Any specific questions I will be happy to answer!!
Cam.
I did an MGB and a mate of mine did a VW campervan, both the same way, sanded down to metal, treated with kurust sanded again, slight skim of filler, more sanding, few coats of primer, four coats of cellulose top.
Within 3 weeks, rust had bubbled through, much to my despair!!
What had happened was that although we waited many times the recommended time for the Kurust to do it's stuff it was STILL reacting after the sanding and the filler, causing the filler to crack and let moisture in thust causing more rust.
My mate still uses it but he scrubs it violently with white spirit before the filler to remove it.
I don't use it at all now but instead make I sure that I sand/grind ALL the rust out, even if it means carefully building areas up with small welds.
We now don't have a problem.
With regard to painting (presumably you are using aerosols) as long as you are careful it can produce surprisingly good results!
If you have applied any filler then you will have to sand it down in stages to get a good finish. I used 400, 800 and 1500 grit wet and dry (used it wet) in stages until you could not feel any join between the filler and the body / old paint, if you can feel a slight step then after the top coat of paint has dried you WILL see it!!!
Make sure that any filler you have sanded wet is totally dry and clean before spraying with primer, when you spray the primer use about 3 coats but make sure that you leave 15mins or more between coats and make sure that the coats are not too thick or the paint could wrinkle.
When spraying the top coat (colour) have a light shining along the surface of the panel so that you can see which areas are wet and which are dry, and when spraying move the can so that the areas are 'just' wet and overlap each other, this method avoids runs and rough patches.
When the complete area has been covered, wait until it is dry before the next coat or problems WILL occur!
I usually find that when I get to the stage of "that looks fine but I will give it just another coat" I usually make some cock a doodle diddley-up, so I tend to leave it now!!!
When you have finished, leave the paint for a few weeks, and then get some cutting compound (it has the consistancy of rough toothpaste) and give the paint a good rubbing to remove any 'orange-peel' effects, then after that a good polish and it should be OK!
It is more a case of practice, but don't panic if you get a sag or a run, finish the job, wait for a few weeks for the paint to harden and then with some careful sanding and 'cutting' it can usually be rectified.
Any specific questions I will be happy to answer!!
Cam.