Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

I removed the engine from my 1098 (1971) traveller for some mainenance..

While removing it I found I couldn't slide it forward enough to free it from the geabox 1st motion shaft and lift it up. The sump hangs down far enough to foul on the chassis crossmember by about an inch. I took the sump off while it was in the car still and removed the engine.

One way around it would have been to jack the gearbox up to such an angle so that the sump could rise above the crossmember, but the steering rack was in the way.

Is it normal to have to remove the sump? I couldn't find a mention of it in the Haynes manual, and others I've spoken to havent mentioned it.

I'll be refitting the engine soon so not sure whether to add the sump first or not ..

thanks

Doug

Did you remove the front engine mounts and towers?

You don't need to remove the sump normally, the heater tap has to come off though.
The gearbox touching the rack isn't a problem, taking the front panel with rad attached makes life easier, otherwise I think the rad needs to come out too.

We did it with the heater tap, and sump in place, we did consider removing it, but it can be done with the gearbox just jacked up slightly, and the engine wiggled in, at a bit of a transverse angle as you do.

Hm- I removed the radiator,didn't remove the mounting posts (but I don't think they were in the way)

I'll have a go with the sump on, I think. worst case is I have to take it off again. At least I know it can be done.

Ta folks

How on earth did you get the engine out with the towers still in place?

with the sump off I could steer the engine off to the passenger side as it came out of the gearbox. wasn't easy though.

No need to remove towers or sump. The sump is narrower than the towers anyway. Easiest way is certainly to remove the front panel although can be done by careful jiggling with it still in place. Just make sure you don't knock the clutch plate out of alignment if doing it with the front panel still on.....

I have never removed the towers - or the sump pan......

nor me can't see why,just jack up the engine which lifts the gear box untill the gear box is touching the transmission tunnel(After removing the top bell housing bolts)Then suport the gearbox in that position nudo the other bolts and the engine comes straight out and up and if you leave the box in that position straight down and back in.Assuming of course you have an engine hoist,if just a block and tackle then use a trolly jack under the gearbox so you can push the car back once the engine is high enough.

Thanks all

kennatt - that was my understanding

Is that with the front panel removed? I left mine in, and just removed the radiator .. I'd assumed the front crossmember is structural but does it come off witht he front panel ?

cheers
Doug

the front cross member is structural and remains with the car when you remove the front panel.

if you remove the front panel the engine should be able to go in at less steep an angle so should make it easier to line everything up.

I usually remove one engine mount, it rally makes things much easier and allows for more space to move the engine about out from between the chasiss legs, then it can be refitted while the engine is still on the jack

I normally undo one turret and leave the engine mount attached to block so when coming to put back in its real easy and have a jack under the bellhousing and normally it drops straight onto the spline of spiggot shaft