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how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 3:48 am
by Iain Hall
Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:42 am
by ZetecVan 2.0
You should be able to just push that small metal button with something pointy like a paperclip and as you're pushing, gently pull the knob and it should slide off. If the silver button is not moving, give it a quick squirt with WD40.
Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:10 am
by Iain Hall
Thanks fro that !
Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:19 am
by mike.perry
See photo of switch - Topic 2 speed wipers Push-Pull type switch
Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 8:47 pm
by Iain Hall
Thanks for the advice managed to remove the headlight switch without drama but the release pin on the wiper switch turned out to be rather rusty and it refused to release so I ended up having to destroy the Bakelite knob

not too concerned though as I don't think that I will be using the original switches because of my aversion to the prince of darkness (Joe Lucas

)
Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:21 am
by charlie_morris_minor
i think the princess of darkness let the side down when designing the switches... they seem to work for a long time without any problems

Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:05 pm
by Iain Hall
Charley
I owned a Norton ES2 that would never keep its battery charged for all of the thirty years it was in my possession, I also had a Landrover that was afflicted by Lucas electrics and I was forever adjusting the points to keep it going. The problem is not teh switches but the fact that they are expected to cope with quite high currents and that means that after fifty years they are pretty well all burnt out where it matters. Modern cars use relays for all high current switching and that means that controls for the headlights ect are all running truly nominal currant. This all means that I will be using the entire wiring loom from my engine donor car and I will probably use the switch mounting holes in the dash for some extra idiot lights, two for indicator tell tales, one for brake fail and one will have an engine start button