Morris Minor Owners Club

As you have been most probably been following our saga,
the side valve in my Tourer was re'coed about 15 years ago
but with hardly any use since.

I have been turning it over often and it still turns freely.

The exhaust valve in No:1 was stuck open but I know have that closing.

It is fitted with electronic ignition which throws a spark more akin
to a bolt of lightening!

Now the engine previously ran. But we cannot get it to fire.

We turned it to TDC and linned up the plug leads in the correct order.

The engined turned over and we got a variety of back-fires and
other noises, culminating in the carbies being set on fire!

There is also an issue with the carbies flooding, but has anybody
got any clues that could help get the engine running? (PLEASE?)

We turned it to TDC and lined up the plug leads in the correct order.

If it was running before why do this?
If you changed some I'd change them back again.

What I do with an engine, who has not run for a long time, is take a Propane (LPG) tool, disconnect the petrol system, and try to start on LPG, direct in the air filter inlet.
with this tool, I normal weld the copper pipes in my house, but it can also let a car engine run on 1500 - 2000 rpm.

On that moment you have only the spark plugs as possible problem, when the car does not run on this gas..
When the engine is running on LPG for a while, connect the petrol system on, so this part can take it over.

The fact that it is backfiring seems that it is trying to start but in the wrong place.
Check the bleeding obvious, we all make mistakes.
Firing order 1342 ANTI clockwise. All HT leads secure in coil, plugs and dizzy cap?
HT lead no1 in same terminal as rotor arm at TDC?
With the ignition on and fast tickover unclamp the dizzy enough to move it then turn the dizzy to try to find the firing point whilst pressing the starter button. If no luck swap the plug leads one place 1 to 2, 2 to 3 etc and try again. Still no luck try again until you are back where you started. If that does not work ???????????????
Check carb pistons are lifting and dropping freely.
It may be worth returning to a single carb set up until you have the engine running.

Thanks everybody and especially Mike.

You may have hit the nail on the head, we have been working CLOCKWISE!

We will give it another go soon.

Thanks oli

Sorry to be so long, but we have had a family tragedy since I last posted.

But I am back now thanks everybody for your input especially Mike.


With help help of my Morrie mate Neville,
we sorted out the timing.

We were Clockwise instead of ANTI - clockwise
on the dizzy cap, 180 Deg out on the timing plus,
when we could not get the thing to start,
just for something to do, because we had
tried everything else, I reversed the order
of the plug leads, and BINGO! Away she went!

After 15 years plus!

NOW, the only problem is that it is reving way too
high on idle, at around 1600rpm, we have adjusted
the air/fuel mixture and that bought the revs down
a touch and then when we retarded the spark it got
very close to correct idle, but it was retarded
so much I think it would be undrivable.

Has anybody got any ideas?

One step forward and one step BACK!

did you adjust the throttle stop screw to slow the revs down

Yes Ian we did.
It is strange because we can't see them But I'm sure the throttle butterfly's are closed but it is still reving...?

Is the carb piston dropping down completely when the accelerator is released, is the needle in the piston too high, is the jet too low, did you solve the flooding problem

Is the accelerator cable properly located in the pedal and cable stop at each end with a little slack.
Is the return spring closing the throttle lever fully?

Ian and Mike thanks again for the tips, I will try again soothe floodong is OK now.

Oli

Sorry to take so long to post a reply.

We sorted out the timing and we had to reverse the lead order
(1 at the back and 4 at the front), and turn the distibutor about 90Deg
and found the correct TDC, but we got it going!

The carb pistons are a little sticky, but I am working on getting these
to work smoothly.

Every thing else is fine with the exception of:
1) won't idle under about 1600 revs.
2) when timing is retarded revs drop but then can't get it to acceleate, only idle.

We have not checked the needles yet, that is on the list.
It seems to run smooth enough other than the above.

The ignition leads are new, but the steel core type
and we have had trouble timing with a light because they
interfere with the electronics of the gun.

So I am getting anothe set of silicon leads soon.

Any other ideas Lads?

Never had any problems with copper core HT leads.
Take the air filters off so you can see the carb pistons working when the engine is running
Have you slackened off the fast idle screw before adjusting the tickover screw, then adjusted the fast idle screw so that it is just touching the cam?
When the choke is closed can you push the choke lever on the bottom of the carbs down any further?
Have you checked the accelerator cable fitting as per my earlier suggestion?

mike.perry wrote:Is the accelerator cable properly located in the pedal and cable stop at each end with a little slack.
Is the return spring closing the throttle lever fully?

Yes Mike we have done this thanks, will now try your other suggestions.

Sorry for the late reply's but I don't get much time to play with the car.

hello Oliver,

as you have twin carburettors, disconnect the throttle link between them, and check the idle screw on each carburettor. If it is still idling high, push hard on each carburettor spindle to try and close them and see if you can pinpoint which carburettor is at fault?

Alec

Alec
The sidevalve normally does not come with twin carbs unless a conversion you may be getting the wrong impression by the use of Aussie slang carbies for carb but I could be wrong and will accept correction humbly
Ian

Hello Ian,

I picked up on this comment by Mike Perry, "It may be worth returning to a single carb set up until you have the engine running."

I have to assume from that that it has been modified?

Alec

Have you got the Monaro carb set up? If so post some photos please. (On a clean white table cloth ) In joke.
What needles are you running?

Her's a couple of photo's of the MONARO TWIN CARB manifold that we have remade, as fitted to my car.






You will notice I have done away with the original
exhaust manifold and now have a set of exhaust
extractors fitted.

Both the inlet manifold for the twin carbies and
the exhaust extractors have been ceramic coated.

I will try a few more of the suggestions this week end.

Thankyou everybody for your interest and help.

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Some more photos
The exhaust should be worth a few more BHP
I notice that you have a 25D dizzy without a vacuum advance pipe, is that because it is better or because you do not have a DKYH4A dizzy?