Trunions and dampers

Post by **Benjy** » Fri Jun 18, 2004 6:04 pm

I've finally gotten around to taking the suspension apart (see Crossmember Replacement in this forum). There's play between the top trunnion and the leg all the way up the thread (i.e. even if I screw it up the leg a bit), so does that indicate the trunnion, leg or both need replacing.

Also, I noticed that the damper arm move (very, very) freely up and down through the slot in the inner wing. Now I'm not being thick, but that's not right is it?
I tried looking inside for fluid, but couldn't see and don't have anything suitable to try topping up with at the mo. Surely the MOT test should have picked up if a damper isn't working?

One day, I'll get this car back on the road!!!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Fri Jun 18, 2004 6:18 pm

Also, I noticed that the damper arm move (very, very) freely up and down through the slot in the inner wing. Now I'm not being thick, but that's not right is it?
I tried looking inside for fluid, but couldn't see and don't have anything suitable to try topping up with at the mo. Surely the MOT test should have picked up if a damper isn't working?

it should give a lot of resistance - the lack of fluid is a giveaway. Hydraulic jack oil is often used, but you can get the proper stuff from Minor centres.
If you fill them up you might just find that they leak...
Recon ones are not too expensive ;-)

Post by **salty_monk** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:54 pm

I tried looking inside for fluid, but couldn't see and don't have anything suitable to try topping up with at the mo

Ray's trying to say (Sorry Ray...

you must have been busy...

) that the lack of resistance makes it pretty obvious that there is no fluid inside (as you couldn't see..) & that it has probably all leaked out.
Try using a gear box oil bottle refilled with the correct stuff for topping up - works a treat and doesn't release the oil until you squeeze it unlike other bottles (another one of Ray's tips...)
If you need an excuse to buy a bottle then use the oil (SAE89/90W) to change the oil in the diff...
Kevin has a link to a place that does the proper oil... It's an MG or sprite place or something from memory...
If you want to try topping up just to see if it leaks try a cheap jack oil to see what happens, make sure you replace the washers on the drain & filler holes in case it is simply losing it through there.
A replacement is £17 per side I think from Bull Motif.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:54 pm

Sorry Ray... you must have been busy...

Actually - yes I was

It was a Friday evening and I was due out to the cinema

Post by **Benjy** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:08 am

Thanks. I've recently changed the diff oil anyway, but always keep a stock those bottles - they are very usefull.

If the thing has been run for a while with no fluid, is it likely to have killed the damper?

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:49 am

If the thing has been run for a while with no fluid, is it likely to have killed the damper?

If it has been leaking oil and there is none left you will need replacement dampers anyway, and yes they should have been picked up at the Mot but if there was no sign of leaking fluid its possible they did not pick it up a bit like how they often miss bump stops as well.

Post by **Benjy** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 9:34 am

OK, I've topped up the damper and it did take a fair bit of fluid, but it's now working nicely and feels smooth through it's entire travel, so I think I'll leave it for now.

One last(?) question. Having resigned myself to buying a new king pin plus trunions and probably a hub puller too, how on earth do you get the steering bar and ball joint apart? I've read both Workshop and Restoration manuals (Haynes) and have had no sucess. Also, it sounds like the restoreation manual method breaks the tie bar? Am I just not hitting the nut hard enough, or is there a better way?

Ben

Post by **Cam** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 9:53 am

how on earth do you get the steering bar and ball joint apart?

Ball joint splitter.

£4.64 from Machine Mart

Couple of whacks and it pops out.

Also, it sounds like the restoreation manual method breaks the tie bar? Am I just not hitting the nut hard enough, or is there a better way?

Not sure what you mean there. Could you clarify?

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:55 am

Also, it sounds like the restoreation manual method breaks the tie bar?

Like Cam I am puzzled at this as it unbolts.

Post by **57traveller** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:05 pm

A bit more genteel for a couple of pounds extra!

Post by **Matt** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:14 pm

The one like 57traveller works really well.... its like the one i (my dad's) have.....

Post by **Benjy** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:22 pm

Sorry for confusion.

Workshop manual says unscreew castellated nut a few turns and hit it - didn't work - should I hit it harder?

Resto manual says smack the eye on the side, presumably squashing it and popping the ball out - didn't try because it sounds like it might do permanent damage!

How many times have I looked in Machine Mart, Screwfix etc and seen ball joint splitters - why on earth didn't I think of that

Oh well, I've got to get a puller anyway, a splitter isn't exactly megabucks so what the heck!

Ben

Post by **salty_monk** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:22 pm

There's also a type with a pivot in the middle which gives you more leverage, they're good but more pricey again & you can't always get into tight places with them....

If you use the type in Cam's picture make sure you coat the rubber bit (on the ball joint) in Fairy liquid first.. this will act as a lubricant & should stop you from tearing the rubber. Won't hurt to do it if using the other types either....

Post by **57traveller** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:33 pm

Like this Dan however as you say not much good when there's limited access. You can really exert a massive force with these. They are a lot more expensive and possibly a bit "over the top." A stubborn taper does go with a resounding "crack" with this type.

The previous screw type is excellent for confined spaces though.

Post by **57traveller** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:39 pm

Benjy wrote:Resto manual says smack the eye on the side, presumably squashing it and popping the ball out - didn't try because it sounds like it might do permanent damage!

What they mean Ben is to tap around the outside of the steering arm which sometimes helps to release the taper. Usually never does in my experience.

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:58 pm

57 are there any tools you dont have, and it appears that you must have a huge kitchen and table to keep them all on

Post by **Cam** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:28 pm

I have used both the other types (with the screws) and have ended up breaking them on stubborn balljoints (usually the larger hub types ones as on the Mini etc). The best type is the forked one as I showed. It can tear the rubber gaiter on the ball joint if you are not careful but they DO work well unlike the others in my experience, but they might be OK on the smaller joints such as the Minor trackrod end ball joint.

Post by **Matt** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:37 pm

My dad used the 1st one with a screw in it on his minis and didn't have a problem.....

Post by **Cam** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:38 pm

My dad used the 1st one with a screw in it on his minis and didn't have a problem.....

Lucky dad. I used both types and had a lot of problems............

Post by **Kevin** » Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:42 pm

I have also used the 1st type of screw one years ago and managed to bend it, I think it seems to depend on just how tight the joint is and if your luck is in.