Suspect Exhaust Valve
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Suspect Exhaust Valve
Suspected dodgy exhaust valve, as i haven't converted to lead free head yet if i need to replace one or all the valves and springs is it going to be easier to go for a lead free head considering there about 135 plus vat, if i do convert i take it the replacement head come with valves.
cheers
mark
cheers
mark
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head
Mr GRUMPY's come with new everything fitted for about that price,
but I did get one which hadn't had the by pass metal tube renewed,
and he sent me one with the wrong size inlet valves for a 1098cc,so
check carefully wherever you buy it from.
but I did get one which hadn't had the by pass metal tube renewed,
and he sent me one with the wrong size inlet valves for a 1098cc,so
check carefully wherever you buy it from.
Willie
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Mark contact Minorite at Houghton on the Hill
Tel 0116 241 6132 Email houghtongarage@totalise.co.uk
They are very helpful and only 12 miles away.
Tel 0116 241 6132 Email houghtongarage@totalise.co.uk
They are very helpful and only 12 miles away.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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*Hijacking someone elses thread*
How hard is it to swap heads? I've been considering this as an option, 'cos running on unleaded seems to me like an idea which is likely to save me a bit of money (and I'd like, eventually, to get an LPG conversion done, maybe, for which I believe I need an unleaded head anyway).
Is it a day or a couple of days kind of job?
(I have rebuilt 2 stroke engines in the past, but never a 4 stroke....so....am a bit wary, mmmm.)
How hard is it to swap heads? I've been considering this as an option, 'cos running on unleaded seems to me like an idea which is likely to save me a bit of money (and I'd like, eventually, to get an LPG conversion done, maybe, for which I believe I need an unleaded head anyway).
Is it a day or a couple of days kind of job?
(I have rebuilt 2 stroke engines in the past, but never a 4 stroke....so....am a bit wary, mmmm.)
Pyoor Kate
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Depends on skill really (and an element of luck). In the past I have done it in a day with a mate (about 10 years ago), but can do it easily in an afternoon now. If you are not sure, then put a day or weekend aside for it.Is it a day or a couple of days kind of job?
Oh and it's healthier for the engine if you don't run it on unleaded (even with an unleaded head). Unleaded plus an octane boosting additive is far better (such as Castrol Valvemaster Plus). The engine has more power, runs cooler and is less prone to detonation.
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Aaah, good, a weekend is what I was thinking. Maybe I'll get to do that in the summer....
But does the um, suggested use of an octane booster not negate the cost-benefit of using unleaded or are they much cheaper than lead-replacement-additives?
But does the um, suggested use of an octane booster not negate the cost-benefit of using unleaded or are they much cheaper than lead-replacement-additives?
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
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If it's purely cost you are thinking about then consider the following:
The cost of an unleaded head from ESM is £160, so considering that a bottle of additive costs £10 and treats 250 litres, then for the cost of an unleaded head you can buy 16 bottles of additive which treats 4000 litres (880 gallons). If your car does, say 35 MPG then you would break even at 31,000 miles. So if you intend to do more than 31,000 miles on that car/engine (approx 2-3 years running as a daily driver), financially it makes sense to go for the unleaded head.
HOWEVER!!! As I said before, using the additive is better for the engine as it has more power, runs cooler and is less prone to detonation.
The cost of an unleaded head from ESM is £160, so considering that a bottle of additive costs £10 and treats 250 litres, then for the cost of an unleaded head you can buy 16 bottles of additive which treats 4000 litres (880 gallons). If your car does, say 35 MPG then you would break even at 31,000 miles. So if you intend to do more than 31,000 miles on that car/engine (approx 2-3 years running as a daily driver), financially it makes sense to go for the unleaded head.
HOWEVER!!! As I said before, using the additive is better for the engine as it has more power, runs cooler and is less prone to detonation.
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Kate you can run on unleaded anyway because your old head will have a certain amount of lead memory built up from the old fuel and it only has an effect at more than 50 mph,Its difficult to say how long before it would affect the valves but one of my branch mates has been unleaded for over 3 years and has done over 15,000 miles including 2 MOT trips abroad with no ill effects to date, and he does not use an additive, so you could try a compromise and use 4 star every 4th fill and the rest unleaded.'cos running on unleaded seems to me like an idea which is likely to save me a bit of money
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
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Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
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hmm - but if you add the cost of gaskets and an oil change at the same time, and buy the additive in a 6 pack from Castrol, it comes closer to 50,000 miles before you BREAK EVEN. You have to do a lot more miles than that to make it worthwhile.you would break even at 31,000 miles.
However if you will keep the head for use on your next Minor and so on for the rest of your life, or if you keep the car that long then it will be worth it.
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Mmm, see, the majority of my commute is conducted at 60-70mph (although I try and go 55ish on the way home, to save petrolyour old head will have a certain amount of lead memory built up from the old fuel and it only has an effect at more than 50 mph

I suspect that I would start suffering from valve recession rather quickly. It could be argued that I could just do run on unleaded and say "it doesn't matter, I'm going to replace the head *anyway*"; but this has the unfortunate effect of Rebecca dictating when I change the head, which will undoubtedly be the most difficult and cash strapped moment of my life she can find, rather than me doing it when I want.
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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Yes - and the additive is pretty good value as it only adds about 4p a litre (less than LRP and cheaper than an occasional; tank of 4 star)but this has the unfortunate effect of Rebecca dictating when I change the head, which will undoubtedly be the most difficult and cash strapped moment of my life she can find, rather than me doing it when I want.