Morris Minor Owners Club

Ok, I'm going to be replacing the suspension bushes this weekend hopefully. I'm planning on taking everything off and giving it a coat of paint, and put everything back with new bushes.

I need to place an order, ESM don't have poly bush sets in stock so I'm getting them from Bull Motif.

Is there anything else I should get other than bushes? Should I try get some bolts and washers etc to replace while I'm replacing the bushes?

Things like this:

http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=3087

You can count on some rusty or stuck bits that will be the worse for brutal removal tactics. Nuts and bolts are not expensive and new ones go back together so nicely. Don't forget to get replacements for the tab washers that are bent over for locks.

fussyoldfart wrote:You can count on some rusty or stuck bits that will be the worse for brutal removal tactics. Nuts and bolts are not expensive and new ones go back together so nicely. Don't forget to get replacements for the tab washers that are bent over for locks.

Thanks, so just the nuts and bolts, rather than the "kits" they do for the trunions?

ARe you doing the rear suspension? In which case front shackle? pin and plate will quite probably be required.

Alex'n'Ane wrote:ARe you doing the rear suspension? In which case front shackle? pin and plate will quite probably be required.

I wasn't planning on doing it. I'll keep that in mind if I do though

White grease for the Poly bushes..... The eyebolts and the fulcrum pins may be worn.......

you don't really need a trunnion kit, nut it's a good idea to check for any play whilst you're there. with the top trunnion disconnected from the damper to change the top bushes, it's the easiest time to replace if needed, as you've already done the hard bit!

the bottom trunnion is a pig as you would have to remove the brake back-plate the screw the trunnion off. that's not something you'll need to do for bushes. but still a good idea to check for play while you're there!

i'd suggest you change the eyebolt pin when you do those bushes. if the old pin is roughed up by corrosion, it'll wear out the new bushes quicker.

Thanks, Ill get some white grease. Here is my list so far: with the exception of 4 tie bar bushes (which were sold out for poly) Also, I'm not sure which are the tab washers that are bent over, I couldn't find any of them on ESM

2 x Eyebolt (Connects Lower Arm To Chassis)
4 x Eyebolt/Rear Spring Bush-Polyurethane (2 Required Per Side) Each
2 x Fulcrum Pin-Lower Trunnion
2 x Nut-9/16" BSF (Fits Eyebolt)
2 x Spring Washer 3/8"
2 x Upper Pivot Kit (Damper To Top Trunnion) No Bushes
4 x Top Trunnion Bush-Polyurethane (2 Required Per Side) Each
2 x Lockwasher-Top Trunnion Pin
2 x Bolt & Nut (Secures Tie-Bar To Yoke)
2 x Bolt & Nut (Torsion Bar Rear Arm To Cross-Member)
2 x Bolt-Shock Absorber/Damper To Body
1 x Front Hub Nut (L/H)
1 x Front Hub Nut (R/H)
2 x Locking Tab Washer-Damper Mounting Bolts
2 x Nut For Steering Arm (Nyloc 1/2" UNF)
2 x Washer - Eyebolt - Thick
8 x Cup Washer-Tie Bar Bush
2 x Torsion Bar Rear Locating Washer

£91.90


Is there anything missing, also its a big pricetag! So does anyone think anything is unneeded?

are you taking the damper off the car? i suppose you could be taking it off to change the top fulcrum pin.

if not you don't need the damper bolts and lock washers. if you are taking them off, you wont really need the bolts, but new lock washers are a good iead. there are 8 bolts and 4 lockwashers by the way.

you shouldn't need any of the 'rear of torsion bar' parts, unless you're taking the whole torsion bar off, or adjusting the ride height. parts at the rear of the bar don't really wear, as the bar is fixed at that end.

you shouldn't need to replace the whole eyebolt itself. but it has been known for eyebolt bushes to be so worn that the pin starts to wear the inside of the eyebolt hole. so it could be worth having them to hand incase that has happened to you.

don't bother with poly tie rod bushes, they're too stiff. the new rubber tie rod bushes are stiffer than original rubber ones, so new rubber ones will be absolutely fine. i'd suggest nyloc nuts for the tie rod while you're there.

i'd ditch the nyloc steering arm nuts, the only time you'll ever need to take the steering arm out of the swivel pin is if you're replacing the swivel pins themselves.

i can't see you needing hub nuts either. i can't imagine you taking the hubs off in the first place, and anyway, the nuts are covered in grease and never corrode or sieze. you might want new split pins for the hub nuts if you are taking them off.

i think that's it...!

As above - you don't touch the rear end of the T bar - or the hub nuts, or the damper bolts........ Nor do you need half the other stuff you have listed - but if you have money to burn........... Front tie bar is best with a poly bush on the outside and a rubber bush on the inside, this to allow some flexibilty of movement but with secure braking. Check the bump stops and the rebound stops..... Worth fitting some negative camber washers behind the eyebolt while it's all in bits! Retrack the front wheels when finished.