Morris Minor Owners Club

Greetings all,

I plan on replacing the rear leaf springs, bushings, bolts, etc. soon. What is the best way to raise and support the rear of the car to do this?

Also, any general tips for replacing the springs?

Thanks.

Sturdy wood plank across the floor pans/sills just in front of the rear springs - chock the front wheels well. Release oil on the nuts well in advance - and get new front pins - the old ones won't survive. Poly bushes are wise....

Hi gatsby989
As bmcecosse says, loads of release oil on all nuts and bolts in advance, (several times) and strong piece of timber just infront of front spring hanger.
A struggle but I got the pins out OK except for slight bend on the end plates, they knocked flat again.
I discovered that the axle had holes worn through by the “U” bolts and they also where rusted / worn half way through, these I did replace, also new bushes all round (and new axle).
And I thought the Traveller would be on the road in 2 months, I’ts now 6 and still plodding on.
Reg

Thanks for the input, guys. It seems the exhaust may be in the way of putting a wood beam straight across in front of the hangers. Might be able to notch it out. So forget about the workshop manual advice to raise by the rear bumper?

I got the kit from Bull Motif, with poly bushes, which hopefully will have all the necessary bits in case the existing bolts do not survive. Even if they did survive, I suspect they may be quite worn.

Slacken the exhaust rear mount - slip the timber ABOVE the exhaust. DO NOT trust the 'rear bumper'.........

Just done a Bull Motif kit on my son's saloon, and also changed all my rear bushes to poly's on my traveller. Check the kit has the front special pins before you start - I think I had to buy those extra - and also some of the rear shackle pins had badly formed threads so a nut wouldn't go on. BM changed them of course no problem. I found (on my son's car) that a bit of heat on the front pins helped no end and then I could whack - I mean drift - them out. The little cover plate bolts are a pain because the nut on the inside spins round but with a bit of patience you can just get in with a spanner to hold them. Plenty of penetrating oil, patience and cups of tea!

Forgot to say - I used longitudinal timbers under each sill / side to spread the load with axle stands.

Thanks all ... timber above exhaust, of course.

Timber straight across will contact the propshaft before the floorpans. Should I notch that out, or is that nothing to worry about?

No - don't let it bear on the prop shaft Just use shorter (but sturdy) pieces either side of the prop.