Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi

I have read a bit about the roller release bearing for the Midget clutch. I have a midget engine and gearbox and it sounds like a good idea to use a better release bearing than the standard one. Was just wondering where I could get one from and what people think of them? Also is it the same item for the 1098 and 1275 clutch? Thanks.

Also (think I'm getting paranoid now!), how easy should the engine turn over. It's had a rebore and re-grind and pretty much everything else is new. I can turn it over with both hands using the flywheel and just about move it with one hand. When torquing the flywheel bolts I had to old the wheel still while my dad tightened them up as it was turning. Does this sound ok.


I did check at every stage that everything turned freely but obviously as you add more parts it gets slightly stiffer. As I said, probably just getting paranoid!

Cheers

If that's with plugs in then yes - should be ok. Be sure to fill with oil and run it up on the starter motor to circulate oil (plugs out and some oil down the bores) before even thinking of starting it.

That was with plugs out!

The roller release bearing is well worth fitting to the midget diaphram clutch. Due to the extra load of the clutch, a carbon thrust bearing will wear quite rapidly, I know, I've tried it!
If you are using the Minor clutch linkage have you modified the relay shaft?
Birmingham MMC stock the thrust bearings, a bit pricey but when you set it against having to drop the box after a couple of thousand miles it is worth fitting.

Well - as long as you can move it round on the starting handle with one hand........ When you were assembling it - was the crank spinning easily until you started fitting the pistons?

It was fine without pistons, then a little stiffer with them, but still not too bad. I think the fact it has double valve springs (I know what you are going to say!) may be making it much tougher to move. I know I should remove the inner springs, but at the moment I just want to get the engine up and running so may leave them until I take the head off to do a few mods.

Double valve springs........

Two items: a) I have the roller release bearing, and it's great. 2) What's wrong with double valve springs?

Double springs = extra friction and wasted energy in the engine. It's never going to need to rev hard enough to justify them. The idea is to use springs that are 'just' strong enough for the max revs required. A 10098 should NEVER be taken beyond 6000 and a it's unwise to take a 1275 much beyond 6000 unless it has been lightened and balanced.

Valve bounce is a good way of stopping you over revving the engine

Well it has all been balanced, but I don't intend on going over 6000 revs. I know that I will probably take them off in the future but at the moment i just need it running.
Going back to the first question, Who supplies the roller release bearing ?
Thanks

Exactly the point!

Sorry, have just seen Mike Perry's earlier post which says where to get one. Don't know how I missed that! Guess I need stronger glasses.

Also, yes the clutch linkage has been altered as you have described in the past. Thanks.

It must surely be possible to modify the relatively low cost Mini roller thrust for use here - I'll look into it!

Got bored of writing my essay so had a look around for roller release bearings, I see Peter May (engineering) does one for the midget. A bit pricy but probably better than having to drop the box in a few thousand miles!

Define a few thousand miles

Depends on urban or motorway driving etc but I was not very chuffed at having to replace the carbon thrust which had worn down through the metal casing after what seemed a very short time. At the same time I modified the relay shaft.
The roller thrust is a straight swap for the 1098 carbon thrust