Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

I've just changed the clutch on my 1098 Traveller. It works ok but there's now more vibration than before, especially when revving. If I rest my foot ont he pedal, I can also feel some movement through the clutch pedal, in time with the engine.
Not loads- just a bit.

The clutch I used was a Borg & Beck one. I replaced the whole assembly (not just the plate). I'm pretty sure I've bolted it on correctly - it sits on the dowels, and I went round witht the spanner 4 or 5 times on the bolts to the flywheel to check tightness.

Is it possible/likely that I have an out-of balance clutch? My thoughts are that the spigot bush might have plopped out during reassembly (I forgot to check it .. oops ..), or it's worn, so the plate doesn't align properly.

One other factor is that I think the engine main bearings are worn as the engine rumbles when revving (eg >50mph) but that was the case before clutch change anyway - now the vibration is worse.

I'll be giving it a good going-over with new bearings as soon as my garage is clear so hopefully when I whip the engine out all will become clear, but just wondered if there are any other likely causes or things to look out for.
Not played with clutches much before.

Thanks,

Doug

Doug, we had a similar problem with a brand new "Borg & Beck" clutch here two weeks ago-vibration at the pedal. It turned out to be a spring had worked loose. I suspect it could be a quality issue.
Regards
Declan

Hi Declan,

Cheers - Was that a spring in the clutch itself ?
"Borg and Beck" .. hmm .. maybe Bjorn Borg and Jeff Beck in this case
Both excellent in their field, but lousy clutch makers, haha

Doug

melanddoug wrote:Hi Declan,

Cheers - Was that a spring in the clutch itself ?
"Borg and Beck" .. hmm .. maybe Bjorn Borg and Jeff Beck in this case
Both excellent in their field, but lousy clutch makers, haha

Doug

Yes it was in the clutch itself.
Declan

It is VERY VERY easy to knock the springs when fitting the engine back on to the gearbox - especially if struggling below trying to lift the box back into place on the engine. It's ALWAYS easier to lift the engine when fitting a new clutch - and a new crankshaft bush is a GOOD idea too.......

Thanks Declan and Mr BMC-

I was trying to find out about the rear engine oil seal and after some searching on here I've found lots of posts (mainly from one BMCEcosse!) explaining it's a 'scoll and labyrinth' arrangement, and not a traditional seal.

I'm not familiar with a scroll and labyrinth.. is it like an oil thrower on the crankshaft and a labyrinth kind of encasement to catch said thrown oil and dribble it back into the engine ? If so I guess the clearances aren't too critical- I was wondering which part wouid go wrong if the main bearing was very worn, as per one of your posts.

Is there a part of the scroll/labyrinth that I should replace while I'm doing the main bearings ?

Thanks again for your advice.

Doug

It is as you describe. Nothing can be replaced - but equally nothing should wear since there is normally no actual contact. UNLESS - the rear main bearing wears greatly, and then there may just be a chance of contact/wear - and the scroll will be flooded with excessive oil pouring out of the badly fitting bearing..... and further pushed out past the seal if there is any pressure in the crankcase...

aha,

".. and further pushed out past the seal if there is any pressure in the crankcase..."

er -- but there's no seal ?

<confuzzled>

D

Well - the 'seal' is that scroll etc - so any crankcase pressure will over come the scroll/labyrinth and oil will blow out into the bellhousing.

Ah I see. Thanks again - it won't look so mysterious when I get it all apart now.

And yes I'll be taking the engine out. Removing gearbox = headache.

cheers

Doug