Morris Minor Owners Club

i have 14" minator rims on the pick up. on the front i have had to put a 10mm spacer to stop the tyres rubbing on the top trunnion. this meant i had to put longer studs in, i used the same thread size as what was in there as standard just a bit longer. now one of them has snapped whilst at the mechanics (not sure how) . the mechanic was concerned that the stud diameter was a little small for this size of wheel (comments please) and also that the centre of the wheel isnt supported by anything, so the only thing that supports the wheel is the shoulder of the wheel nuts (more feed back and comments please)

many thanks

10mm sounds very excessive. i've got 1/4 inch (6.3mm) on mine and it clears just fine. if the spacers you have are the 'universal' type (lots of stud patterns) that won't help things, as they dont support the stud as much.

i'm not sure if you can get spacers that are only for 4 inch pcd. we made our own.

what you have been told about the wheel centre locating does make sense, if you look at a standard minor wheel (more noticeable on the front) the hole in the centre of the wheel is a good fit on the hub centre, so the forces are taken by the hub, and the nuts/studs just stop the wheels spinning!

my minlights havent got the right size wheel centre hole, so all of my bump loads are taken on the studs, but with that 4 inch pcd 1/4 inch thick spacer, 30,000 miles after fitting the wheels, on some very bumpy roads, i've not broken any studs yet!

thanks, 10mm is too much but 5mm is not enough, so i just went bigger. i do have the universal type spacers amd can see your point. maybe i will make some more and even a support ring in the centre.

The 'mechanic' is just covering up for the fact that he has overtorqued your studs - you should probably renew them ALL now in case he has damaged them. No need for centre support (wheelcentric) on the Minor- he's talking through a hole in his head....... The 3/8" studs are fine - if not overtightened.

i suppose when you think about it if the wheel is done up tight enough its the friction thats created by the back of the wheel to the drum that holds it in place. With my spacers being universal there are more holes so less surface area so possibly less friction. So maybe exact fit spacers would be a better option?

There is something in what the mechanic says as modern cars have a spigot on the hubs that the wheel fits on and with original and after market alloys some have a plastic insert to allow them a snug fit on the spigot. Some times when we remove alloys to do body repairs we have to use a large (sledge) hammer to remove as the corrosion on the inside of the alloy has virtually welded it on, if only copper grease was used when mountig wheels. It happens to some steels as well but they are easier to get off,then again he has probably used the dreaded air gun at full pressure to tighten up, do they not realise that the manufacturers supply a small wheel brace, All mechanics and tyre fitters should be sent out in a torrential downpour and made to change a wheel they have put on with an air gun using the cars wheel brace. We have hade to use breaker bar and extension tube in some cases to break the nuts and with some of the silly lock nut keys around they are as soft as chocolate and destroy the nuts and key and they then have to be drilled out
Oh rant over, yes I had to drill a set of locknuts out on friday

ok so what torque setting should they be then please? and do i get a plastic insert and better spacers?
i do use copper grease to stop the wheel welding on, i have a bit of a habit of puting it everywhere that i need to undo oneday!

40 ft lbf is fine. No need for centering - the studs/nuts will do the job. Copperslip is good stuff - but not necessary for this job, but use a thin smear if you like. Your multihole spacers will be fine.

thanks ill check them tomorrow

We have Minators fitted to our 2dr, and got spacers for them from Halfords if this helps.