Morris Minor Owners Club

among other things i want to replace suspension rubbers,already done top trunnions,gave up on tie rod bars but rubbers ok,how does one get to renew eyebolt rubbers,got as far as removing one side of arm but eyebolt cannot be removed as torsion bar seems permantly fixed to other arm,whats the answer ,simple instructions please.

The answer is....Get a manual and read carefully as theres potentially a lot of energy stored in the torsion bars. Its a relatively straightforward job once the tension is out of the torsion bar...the lever just slides off the splines.

This is how I did mine, obviously someone will be along to tell us an easier way and I will kick myself.
If the front arm does not slide back along the splines you will have to remove the torsion bar. This is easy if it has been dismantled and greased recently but can be a b*gger of a job if everything is seized. Believe me, the arm doesn't just slide of the splines (not in my case). Jack up and support chassis rails with axlestands. Remove the tension in the torsion bars. Take the nut and bolt out of the rear torsion arm and lever the arm forward along the splines, firstly marking the position on the splines. Then undo the large nut on the rear of the torsion bar and using a hide mallet bash the bar forwards 5mm or so, enough to remove the horseshoe shaped washer previously hidden by the torsion arm. The torsion bar will then pass backwards through the crossmember enough for the front torsion arm to come away from the eyebolt fitting.
That's the theory, good luck.

No need to remove the T bar ! Changing the eyebolt rubbers is a half-hour job each side. The front arm doesn't slide on the splines - only the rear arm. Soak the splines with release oil after wire brushing as best you can - while you wait for the polyurethane bushes to arrive. Waste of time fitting new 'rubber' bushes.

Thank you BMC, knew you would know the quick way!
(kicking myself now)

thanks to all for advice,will try and carry out operation soon.

bmcecosse wrote: The front arm doesn't slide on the splines - only the rear arm.

Yours must be rusted on then Roy as mine slide nicely!!

Your right though its the rear arm that needs to be moved to allow the bush replacement

Taupe

The front arm doesn't go anywhere near the splines...........(we are talking here of the front and rear parts of the lower suspension arm...) My rear arms slide easily - but ones that haven't been moved for years need wire brush + plus gas a few days in advance...........

bmcecosse is that a fairburn tank on your site,how about a nice jumbo,seen enough of that caley tank.

I'm not a 'train spotter' - just a humble Fireman. And I didn't make the Gif either - thanks to 'Big Al' in another place for that! We are rolling out a J94 in the next couple of weeks - 'how exciting' I here you say - exactly.....

would have prefered a j36 musn,t complain bo,ness needs all the runners it can get.,by the way impossible to secure distributor,points are badly pitted after only a few minutes, plate moving ever so slightly altering gap on and off.

What dizzy is it? The baseplate should be held steady by the return spring for the vacuum advance........
And yes - the J36 is currently on show at York..... when it should be in the Bo'ness workshop getting a new cylinder block casting fitted......

DKYH4A distributor,had many a trip on old "maude" to perth and back £7 a trip,had to stop at "cumbernauld bank" for a blow up.

When you say about securing the distributor are you by any chance missing this clamp that keeps it in place?[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

David,my distributor is slightly differant,anyway it is knackered,the shaft is worn and causing movement to the set points gap,burning and pitting means possible breakdown if car is used,mike has suggested fitting any morris distributor asn long as its in good condition,do you know best place to aquire one.any chance of a photo of the bolt which secures the whole thing to the head,mine is missing leaving a hole.[frame][/frame]

The clamp is clearly shown above !

I think you have the same engine as me,where the dist goes into the head there should be lines in the head with A clockwise and R counter clockwise and a cotter pin should go in from the side you can see in your picture and a nut and washer from the carb side . If you have a copy of the manual its page 131
Ah Voila here is the picture doesn't actually show cotter but at least shows where it goes
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thanks for photo i have plenty showing same view,there is no advance /retard markings on my set up no doubt worn off years ago,what i need is photo of cotter pin and sizes hoping i can locate one etc.

maybe one from a push bike pedal crank will do the job get one and try it out

did try pushbike bolt,of no use, far too short and incorrect type.