Morris Minor Owners Club

I've got lots of little dings in the bootlid and need a more flexible sanding device than the rigid one I currently have. Does anyone know where I can get a sanding system that will work the curves of Minor bodywork?
Thanks
Rob (UK)

Hello Rob,

the best discs I find are the mesh strip discs, very quick to remove paint and will go into little hollows. They leave a very good finish for painting. Relatively expensive as their life is quite short.
Here's a picture:- http://www.frost.co.uk/catalogsearch/re ... sc&submit=
They are readily available at tool stores, engineering merchants etc, and cheaper than Frost's generally.

Alec

Thanks, Alec, but this is for sanding down the filler on long flat-ish sections rather than getting the steel clean. I've got a shotblasted shell but the thousands of tiny dents and lots of ripples need a long flat sander to level it all out, such as the bootlid. The sander in the pic is too rigid to go with the curve of the body.[frame][/frame]

Hello Rob,

I thought you were referring to getting into the dents, I don't know of any flexible sanding boards, but try your local vehicle refinishing supplier? Otherwise try sanding in different directions rather than just across, it should come up OK like that.

Alec

try using a smaller block

How would a smaller one affect things? I was assuming that any length of stiff block will only have one contact point rather than the large surface area I was imagining needing. My thinking is that a long, curved board will hit the high spots but leave the low ones.
Only after getting some colour on was I able to see the long, shallow ripples. (hard to see in this shot)[frame][/frame]

Hi Rob

You want one of these

http://www.eastwood.com/adjustable-flex ... -inch.html

Used to be able to get ones with an adjustable curve with a rod and nuts on top but havent seen one for years!

Taupe

I have made up custom sanding boards from 1/8" tempered Masonite (brand name). What ever handles used fastened with flat head machine screws and the sanding paper glued on . Pick a width that make it flexable enough to follow the curves . A short er block is not the way to go , will make waves in the filler .

You obviously have a very high competence level already, so I feel like I am teaching my grandmother to....

Anyway, it's just technique and patience. A smaller rubber sanding block, a coarser grit and light even strokes. Work in straight lines at about 90 degrees to each other about 45 degrees to the horizontal.

Start with a thin even fill and work until you see the first sign of steel. Re-apply filler and go again. Continue until you are grinding only filler with no low spots. If you are struggling to see or feel spray on a guide coat.

These people are highly regarded:-
http://www.flexiblesanders.co.uk/

Hello Neil,

I agree with what you are saying except for using a small block. The long bed sander is easier to control in the circumstances above, in my experience, basically as you use both hands.

Alec

You obviously have a very high competence level already, so I feel like I am teaching my grandmother to....

...I wish!

First time doing paintwork other than blasting paint onto a Healey some years ago. When trying something new I will generally read up on the theory and then 'give it a go' but in the case of sanding I seem to have missed a step somewhere.

you could use a strip of dense polystyrene or sometimes there is a dense foam packing material that can be used if you cant get that then with care you can use a smaller block, use little pressure and sand the complete length of filler and not small strokes and as said use a fairly course paper at first

Polystyrene. Now that sounds like a good idea. I'll have a look for something suitable. Thanks!

even with the longer block use gentle pressure and rub full length of filler allowing block to go past ends of filler