Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi ive searched on the forum for a step by step kind of guide to wiring a stereo with a din plug etc I think I've got a good handle on it by I'm stuck figuring out 2 things

1. When wiring to ign power is there something on the fusebox I can wire to or do I simply split the live connection from the on position of the ign switch?

2. When wiring directly to the battery is there somewhere other than the terminal directly that I can put this wire? Just for neatness sake i.e a position on the fuse box?

Sorry I'm very visual in learning so any pics would be most appreciated

Cheers
Tom

you should (correct me if i'm worng.. this is how i have it) be able to connect it straight into the fuse box. one side is an unswitched supply (lets the radio keep its stations), and the other is switched with the ignitition. hopefully you'll have a few spare spade connections you can attatch into. simple detective work will help identify which side is which.

also.. i think you're supposed to put an inline fuse on the supplies as close as you can to the supply. i've not done that yet, but its in the pipeline. thankfully the radio's got its own fuse on the back.

as i say.. that's my setup and its worked for 16 months without quarrel. hopefully its correct!

Thanks James!

So on the unswitched side would I be putting an inline fuse or would I put one on the switched side? Or both?

Cheers tom

For the unswitched or permanently-on supply you could connect to the fused side of the fuse box, the same side as the purple connections that feed the horn and the interior light. The additional load is very small, and no other fuse would be required.

For the switched side I would suggest that you take the supply from the unfused side of the switched fuse, used to be called the 'A3' terminal, and has the white wires connected to it. Fit an in-line fuse as an added precution, but most modern stereos have one already. I would not connect to the fused side, as the standard fuse has a reasonable load on it as standard, and adding a stereo could bring the total load too close the maximum for the fuse - they are rated at 35A, but the continuous load is only 50% of that, i.e. 17.5A.

Obviously if you run a wire through the bulkhead, or any other panel, make sure that you fit a grommet in the hole to protect the wire from the sharp edge of the hole.

Hi I was wondering what size fuse would you recommend for the inline fuse to the head unit by my class a 5amp fuse for peak 50w stereo? Or would you reconnenda 10amp

IslipMinor wrote: Fit an in-line fuse as an added precution, but most modern stereos have one already.

You should always have a fuse in the supply cable. If there is an internal short in the stereo, the fuse in the back will protect it. If the cable rubs and shorts to the body, the fuse is blissfully unaware! This is when fires happen because an unfused cable is basically a 1 bar electric fire!

If you use the spurs that are already fused then you need to look at the rating. IIRC the fuses are 20/35 amps. This means that if you do not have any unfused accessories operating, there is a full 35 amps available.

If you are considering a few extras (stereo, gauges heated windows, reversing light , etc) then it may be worth running a slightly larger FUSED cable to a mini fusebox inside the dash. You can get them all over, from halfords to Demon Tweeks.

must get those fuse installed.. only a month until a summer of study free time. the car is going to get some serious tlc

Thanks so much for all your help guys!
will let you know how I go!

If you search 'stereo' on the forum there could be a couple of other threads in which I've explained in detail which coloured wire does what. Once you've done one stereo it gets easier, I've done a few now and they're pretty much second nature now, including switched amps and subs