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rebuilding an engine

Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:11 pm
by andrew.searston
hi everyone
im planning on rebuilding a 1098cc engine
whats the best way to remove the crank pully without the engine turning???
and when putting the pistons back in could you get the pistons the wrong way round and not know about it??
and if i could have some general advice please :D

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:17 pm
by bmcecosse
Take the sump off and wedge the crank with a piece of timber. Take LOTS of pictures as you go - and put everything back EXACTLY as you take it off.

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:19 pm
by andrew.searston
will do
the pully is the hardest parts to remove
any other advice i should know about???
it has slight pitting from surafce rust in the bore (turns freely) will just honeing it remove rust

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:31 pm
by bmcecosse
Should do - but is there a ridge at the top of the bore ?

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:48 pm
by mike.perry
I hope these questions are in addition to reading the workshop manual

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:22 pm
by katy
What's a workshop manual??????? :o :o

Re: rebuilding an engine

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:31 am
by rayofleamington
when putting the pistons back in could you get the pistons the wrong way round and not know about it??
Yes - the con rods are handed in most engines. It makes more difference in some engines than others but they must be fitted the correct way round.

Often the pistons are marked 'front' or an > to show front (In a Minor that is towards the water pump). If you don't remove the pistons from the rods, then the front symbol will give you a clue how to orient the pistons and the rods will be in the same place as they came out. Taking photos during strip-down helps to remove any doubt.

There are a lot of things to learn about engine rebuilding - the most important thing is to take time and take care. If you do some things in the wrong sequence you can end up doing them 3 times.. Everything needs to be very clean and all moving parts should be lubricated. At every stage, check that the engine rotates fully (2 turns of the crank = 1 turn of the cam).
Correct alignment of the rings is important. correct alignment of the cam and crank is crucial. Correct alignment of the dizzy drive shaft is useful.
When taking the time to do an engine rebuild and re-hone then new rings are worth having. If it needs a rebore then you'll need new oversize pistons and rings. The crank may need a re-grind and the cost of that plus the cost of new shells starts to hike the price. Add on a new timing chain and sprockets, replace any worn cam followers, replace rocker shaft if it's worn etc.. If the engine is very worn to start with, the cost of replacing all the worn parts is very significant.
And that's just a short engine - then you may want to check out the head and it may warrant new valves & guides & springs and having the seats cut - almost worth having an unleaded head if all that needs doing anyway.