Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all,
Mog is in dire need of a new battery box. Have a look at the old one:[frame][/frame]
And from above:[frame][/frame]
I've removed most of the crud...what's left is torn-up metal. No, really. As you can see, it's quite a lot gone -- note the cracks in the bottom corners -- water dripped through these right into my new chassis legs! That's how they acquired surface rust.

So my question is this. Bully sells a replacement battery box for £35.90, or in my own currency $58.53, plus shipping. Why is this replacement panel so pricey, as compared to other panels of similar size? A half-chassis-leg costs about as much. Has the battery box got some kind of complex geometry that I'm not seeing?

And, either way, could I make my own new box for less?

The box is pretty straightforward to make as it's all straight lines and I believe 20 gauge metal. follow the construction of the original. Maybe quicker to buy, but what will it be like!

If you've got enough 1mm steel just make your own! It is only two rectangles and 2 triangles of steel with a few tabs. Make the templates, cut the steel, weld it together off the car, drill out the spot welds on the rusty one and plug weld your new one in!

That's what I was thinking, thanks fellas.

You don't need to have that big hole in the middle either, probably a better car without it.
It is there to make production handling easier.

I was thinking about that. I know it was originally there because the cars were constructed on a spit, and closing it off would help with...let's see...waterproofing, sound cancellation, and heat retention. And also protect the interior if battery acid were spilled.

What do you suppose the smaller holes are there for?

They are for the rubber bump stops (for want of a better phrase)

What do you suppose the smaller holes are there for?

My guess is that they're probably for indexing when they put the spit in.

As the sides of the box look OK, just fabricate a piece to go across the bottom and up the back, with the (about) 3/8" lip at the top. Weld it all the way around. Then you'll have to put a patch over that rust hole just above the box.
That's what I did on the '61 I'm working on now. If need be I can get a pic for ya.

Later, when you put the battery in, cut a chunk out of an old inner tube for the battery to sit in, with a coupla inches sticking up all the way around, this will act as a catch basin for any weepage from the battery. (old farmer's trick)
HTH, Ken

noticed this today on the splittie shell we were moving this afternoon. thought you might like to see it!

those holes are fitted with nice little rubbers to cushion the battery. i didn't look inside the car to see how they attach though.

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Interesting! Thanks, Chris! I'll have to go looking for them...I would think they'd be rather useful.

i've got a block of wood behind the battery in my minor. comes to the same

they fit in the holes with a push and twist with an optional spit on the small end for lubrication

I covered mine with self adhesive rubber step covering from the DIY.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Regards
Declan

That looks pretty smart, too, Declan. I suppose the metal bar holding it in at the front is standard? Mine uses a bungee cord.

The metal battery bar is available from morris suppliers but is easily made at home. I think they're even available "chromed" .

They are also available on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MORRIS-MINOR-BATT ... 43a670f508
Regards
Declan

Those look good - different lengths available. I bought some from a mm supplier and later found they were too short for my battery ... and they only did one size. I didn't even have a large battery - so check before you buy.

the only thing i would change with declans set up is to get a battery that would have the terminals the other way around so that they would be at the back and away from the strap