Morris Minor Owners Club

Am I right in thinking that the one for a 1275 midget engine is the one to go for (with some modification)?
Feel free to add the exact nature of the modification too .

It is - if you have a 1275 engine..... I believe some cut them down for use on the smaller engines - but I've always found the standard cork seal to be satisfactory.

Yes,
Moss sell them and it is definitely the way to go.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... D=1375#166
166 (TAM1089) & 167 (TAM1171)
They need to be cut back with a hacksaw as there is a reinforcing wire moulded into the seal. I also use high temperature silicone just to be on the safe side. It works fine.
We are currently experimenting with a one piece seal. It's a bit rough at the moment and needs some refining but it's looking promising.
Hans Dieter made the first part of the mould in wood-CNC cut[frame][/frame]
First moulded seal as a feasibility study-quite rough but certainly can be improved.[frame][/frame]
Will keep all interested parties informed on any progress.
Regards
Declan
Hans Dieter

Great idea! Innovative!!

Thanks for the info, just what I needed.
That moulded seal is an excellent idea, if it was available now I'd buy it.

I've never has a problem with the cork seal before either, but this time there is, for no obvious reason either.

The cork seals are a bit unpredictable - I've done a few and only had a problem with one.
Cork will compress (i.e. its volume reduces) so you need to leave the ends of the seal proud - but this interferes with the flat part of the gasket. Not proud enough and it sinks into the housing when it is squashed on the diameter. Too proud and the flat gasket wont seal.

A rubber seal will 'flow' rather than squash and therefore can be cut flush with the housing but still load all the surface area when it is squashed on diameter.

must be beginners luck with me i guess. i recently overhauled an engine and fitted a complete gasket set. i have one very very small drip from the front pulley wheel, which to be honest, isn't noticed. its a 948 engine, but with the later 1098 cover (rubber seal). i have good oil pressure as well. zero leaks from sump, rear crank or anywhere else. the breathers are all clear so i guess that helps a little.

result or what!

Well done - of course the breathers help considerably.

Declan,

I really like the look of 'all in one' seal - superb! Will it be commercially available?

Richard,
To produce it commercially would really require injection moulding which is not an issue as H.D. has the machines but the tooling cost is prohibitive. To answer your question, all I can say is "hopefully". The DIY version is easy enough but probably would not meet commercial (not as in far East) quality. It's obviously not just the challenge but the question of demand. It's still at the test stage at the moment and all I can say at the moment is "Watch this space".
Regards
Declan

a lot of us are watching
Regards Win

Here's the second prototype-glad nobody noticed that the first one was a mirror image , so the mould had to be redone.
This seal is slightly oversize at the ends so we are very optimistic and it will be tested soon. If we are lucky it could work straight off. The mould design makes it possible to experiment with the thickness until we get it right.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Regards
Declan+Hans Dieter

Is the flat part of the gasket the same on the 1275 as on a 1098 0r 948?

Very nearly - just tiny bit different at the slightly larger main caps.

I just use RTV silicone for sump seals usually - far better than cork in my experience, but the included main cap seals look good