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ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:58 pm
by welshrat
Hi all,
Bought an anti roll bar many years ago that I would now like to fit, problem is I have no info/instructions. Bar looks pretty standard, eyelets on each end that I guess are bolted with longer bolts, bushes and washes to existing stay bar fixing. The bushes and brackets that bolt to the chassis have 4 wedged washers, dont know where these go. Any advice or info would be great.
PS tried several times to add pics but failed.
Kind regards,
John
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:16 pm
by welshrat
Added a few pics of the anti roll bar I have, follow this link. Thanx
http://s880.photobucket.com/albums/ac10 ... at/morris/
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:29 pm
by bmcecosse
It will just add even more understeer unless fitted as part of a complete suspension upgrade. My advice - don't bother!
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:33 pm
by chrisryder
if you've got 7 leaf springs on the back then DO bother. I'm very pleased with mine!
however mine looks nothing like yours, no idea how yours is meant to go on, sorry!
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:45 am
by mike.perry
[quote="chrisryder"]if you've got 7 leaf springs on the back then DO bother
Does that mean it is worth fitting to a Traveller?
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:12 am
by bmcecosse
Only if you feel your Trav oversteers at the moment...... Much better (and easier/cheaper) mod is to add a bit of negative camber to the front wheels.
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:08 pm
by MarkyB
Fixing the brackets that go over the rubber bushes looks like the tricky bit.
I'd suggest you connect the ends then jack up the middle and decide where the clamps will best fit.
Mine is a different design but has long bolts that go right though the chassis, so aim for something similar.
Don't just look underneath, follow on and see where the bolts will come out and allow enough room to get a nut on

.
Where the wedged washers go should be fairly obvious, they should allow the bolts to the suspension to go in straight although the will be an angle between the parts they are holding together.
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:57 pm
by bmcecosse
If there is no internal bushing in the front chassis member - it's not a very well engineered installation!
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:04 pm
by welshrat
Thanx for the info all, if theres someone out there who has the same bar fitted would be gratefull to hear from you.
In respect of the upgrade, I fitted spax dampers all round several years ago along with front discs, servo and midget 1275 engine and box. Is the 7 leaf spring on the rear a good upgrade, not considered this before, guessing a much stiffer ride?
John
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:22 pm
by bmcecosse
Yes - it stiffens the rear end, hence the possible improvement by fitting the arb at the front - to stiffen the front up to match. Personally I think it's a waste of time - but each to their own!
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:30 pm
by mike.perry
I fitted Traveller springs on my MM not realising that they were different to the original 7 leaves. They jacked the back up, raising the C of G and the back end kept trying to overtake the front on roundabouts. Changed to 5 leaf PDQ
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:45 pm
by MarkyB
internal bushing in the front chassis member
What would that look like, and why would it be a better engineered installation?
Back in the day a Mk3 Cortina ARB could be used and the fittings were the same as on the Ford.
Any pressure, unless the car is on a jack, is upwards.
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:06 pm
by bmcecosse
Tightening the bolts will crush down the chassis member if there is no internal bushing.
Re: ANTI ROLL BAR
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:13 am
by MarkyB
Good point, happily that bolt only has to locate the plate firmly.