Morris Minor Owners Club

Mrs CK has been complaining about the brakes, the lack of brakes.

"Ther's nothing wrong dear" say's I. However a short test run proved otherwise. I took the front wheels off and found that the wheel cylinders were leaking.

Spoke to Rob bwho advised what to do.

However I want to source some parts and have found some on the Bullmotif website.

The parts I am looking are pattern parts are these ok or should I go for OE one's. They are the brakes and she is very dear to me. (Not just the car but Mrs CK also)

That said funds are slightly tight at the moment. Please can anyone advise pattern or OE and if pattern is anyone using them?

Thank you in advance.

All the best.

The Cowley Kids.

I believe some have had early failure with the pattern parts - so I would have to say get the 'originals'. However - you could just put new seals in the cylinders you have - IF they are 'originals'.. If the shoes are contaminated with fluid then you need new shoes too.......

Thank you for the reply bmcecosse.

The shoes are covered in fluid. One of the lads at work mentioned new seals. I don't know if I am, that technical!!

The other thing I don't know is whether or not the cylinders are original?

I'm thinking change the lot for OE parts and then I know it's done. The only thing is I don't want to waste money on OE parts if patterned will do, but I want Mrs CK to come home in one piece everynight. I probably know the answer to my question but you can't beat experience.

Thanks again.

Have you checked the cost of pattern and OE cylinders? I don't think that they are that expensive. If you were buying cylinders for a Series MM then you wuld be more concerned

As long as the cylinders you have are not rusted up - new seals are cheap and easy to fit - and will fix the problem.

I would recommend original type for the front as the pattern ones are made to a different spec. On the back though its a different matter, the pattern ones are fine as they are the same.

Having had total failure myself on pattern cylinders, I'd recommend paying the extra for Lockheed.

I've got originals coming for the front and pattern for the rear. I will probably repair anything that looks ok to keep as spares and to get a bit of experience of repairing things. bmcecosse makes a lot of sense.

One of the lads is coming round to help on Saturday so hopefully all will go ok. He is a Ford Escort man (Mark 1 & 2) I won't hold that against him.(I will let you know how we get on).

Again thank you for the replies and advice.

All the best.

The Cowley Kids.

Managed to get the front brake cylinders replaced but the hub is really tight on the brake shoes even with them adjusted right off. Any ideas anyone, do they just need to bed in?

While under the car I noticed that the rubber gaiter on the steering rack was off at one end so I re attached it.

That got me thinking about jacking and supporting the car.

Please can anyone let me know how to best jack and support the car on stands, blocks of wood etc..... And also where to put the jacks, stands etc.......

Thank you in advance.

The Cowley Kids.

Jack under the chassis legs - with wood blocks between jack and leg. Drum/hub must spin freely - but perhaps as you say it just needs a little running in - although can't say I have ever had that.

Do you mean the brake drum is a tight fit? It should turn freely even with new shoes. If you file the sharp edge off the brake lining at the piston end of the shoe it should help them bed in more quickly ( just a few passes of the file should do, dont go nuts!!)

I always jack up ( as BMC says) the chassis leg using a peice of wood so it doesnt cut into the metal, but under where the eyebolt passes through the chassis leg as this is a double thickness section and is the strongest part of the leg. I then support it with an axle stand as well in case the jack slips or sinks. At the back I usually jack under the middle of the axle and then support with axle stands on each side. You deffianly dont want to have a minor fall on you

make sure the brake shoes are free to move horizontally, you need a little grease in the locating slots and between shoe and backplate. This play is important for the shoes to seat correctly when you adjust them.

My brake shoes were to big so use the adjusters from a 7" hub as they were smaller .

There really should be no need to do that........

Pattern parts sometime fit

Thank you for the replies on the jacking points.

Try as I might the drum on the front offside is really tight, even with the shoes adjusted right back. I have bled the brakes gone on a trial run and the car stops brilliantly. No pulling to one side nothing. But there is a smell from the front offside wheel where the linings are rubbing against the drum. I don't want to do any damage from melting anything so may double, double check everything again. That said I have already double and treble checked and everything appears to be adjusted fine. The drum does not have to be overly forced on although once on it gets really tight to just turn. Could the drum be warped? It doesn't appear to be. Also I have tried putting it on at 12 o'clock, 1, 2 , 3 o'clock and so on. (Please no Bill Haley jokes or anything about the clocks going forward) the drum goes on the same no matter what position I put it on to the hub/studs. The drums seem to be quite new all round as well!!!!!!!!!!!

check the new brake shoes with the old ones mine were bigger and would not fit I was fitting new drums as well . mabe the shoes could be made smaller

What happens if you swap that drum over to the other side?

Good thinking on the drum swap. I'll try tomorrow and report back.

Done the drum swap and were back on the road. Thanks to bmcecosse and to all who helped and replied.