Morris Minor Owners Club

At this time every year, after uncovering the wife's convertible for its first spring outing the clutch always sticks on. In the past starting it, in gear on the pull starter frees this problem. This year I've driven it 2-3 miles in second, accelerating/ deccellerating but no way has it freed!.
Is there any wheeze I can employ to free this recalcitrant mechanical part or do I need to split the engine from gearbox?
All advice much appreciated

The heat from driving it that far should have freed it no problem. Let the car warm up well (maybe 10-15 minutes) then stop it and then start it in gear, obviously making sure that there is nothing in front of you!! The heat and shock from starting it in gear should be enough to free off the clutch. If this doesnt work I would suggest its time to take the clutch out and clean up all the surfaces.

Good Luck

i had this in a van that was laid up for some time, i would put it in reverse, and try and free it by lifting off the clutch repeatedly, then in first and do the same thing, keep doing it, as said before let it warm up well, you could try and drive a bit but be careful when doing that you don't want to cause any damage!

just an idea for future, maybe put a heavy object on the clutch pedal when laying it up to keep the plates free?

If you are OK with doing the job, a new clutch plate could be a good idea.
Also I'd look at the condition of the rubber bungs in the bell housing which should keep damp air out of the area, the only "open" bit should be the split pin.

with out any intention of offence but you don't say that you are doing this with the clutch held down all the time essential if you want it to clear

Thanks for all your comments. Yes I was driving with the clutch depressed, Kennatt. So apart form doing more of the same, it looks as if it a clutch platre replacement jobbie! I supose there is no merit or indeed safe process to apply direct heat to the clutch housing?

removing the bungs may actually help! - If there had ben more dirt and rust in there it should have freed off by now.
Best preventative measure has already been mentioned - press the pedal. It's not too hard to rig up a piece of wood from under the dash to press the pedal - this will prevent it occcuring next winter.
the problem arises with a few types of clutch lining material - they have all kinds of stuff in them including metallic particles. When metals have clean surfaces and are held under high load for a long period of time they can cold weld together. It was known by the clutch manufacturer's but they never admitted it publically - back in the 70's some batches were VERY prone to this problem.

I'd let the engine idle for well over 30 minutes - maybe up to an hour to get the flywheel nice and hot (heat transmitted down the crank. The pressure plate won't be as hot and the differential expansion between the 2 will help to free-off the clutch disk.

Don't feel too bad if you can't get it to shift - I've had one (A marina) that just won't budge, whatever was done to it!

I've heard of some injecting Coca Cola - but never tried it myself. I presume the idea is it may dissolve the rust.......

Which one would you use diet coke or normal ?

Probably best with the cheap stuff from Morrisons......it will be the phosphoric acid content that matters.....

get it in gear and keep pushing and lifting the clutch pedal and shunt it back and forth a bit, you've got reverse and 1st to play with and 2nd. it will start to engage and pull the car. give it a bit of welly! it's just stuck. give it some.