i was wondering what the correct/ideal materials are on some fixings on the morris.
for instance, the radiator, what is normally used to hold the rad? i think the bolts holding my rad are aluminium/alloy, they look very bright grey and they shear easily.
did they use iron bolts on the morris, some bolts seem quite heavy, heavier than modern counterparts and also quite a bit rusty.
what type of metal bolts are used to hold on the water pump originally and what bolts are used now? stainless? i would personally think brass would be better due to the water/risk of rusting/corrosion?
also, what was used for the studs on the thermostat housing and what is supplied now for a replacement?
many thanks.
types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
Mild steel, brass for the gearbox cover.
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
As Les has said steel, but a useful trick with the thermostat housing is to open up the bolt holes with the next size drill to give a little more clearance on the studs, also I always like to use a smear of copper grease as this stops things seizing up.xpress wrote:also, what was used for the studs on the thermostat housing and what is supplied now for a replacement?
many thanks.
Cheers
Kevin
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Kevin
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
i ordered some replacements fro mine from ESM, and they're too short to go through the gaiter and the carpet. longer ones than those sold for the purpose need to be used.les wrote:Mild steel, brass for the gearbox cover.
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
Hello Matt,
you must be talking about the gearlever escutcheon, not the gearbox cover that Les meant, those go under the carpet.
Alec
you must be talking about the gearlever escutcheon, not the gearbox cover that Les meant, those go under the carpet.
Alec
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
Don't ever use stainless where you need strength, eg suspension. They are not as strong as high tensile.
This website has a lot of useful info
http://www.britishfasteners.com/index.php
This website has a lot of useful info
http://www.britishfasteners.com/index.php
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
Alec wrote:Hello Matt,
you must be talking about the gearlever escutcheon, not the gearbox cover that Les meant, those go under the carpet.
Alec
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Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487
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Re: types of metals and their quirks when used in fixings, nuts,
Great site.beero wrote:Don't ever use stainless where you need strength, eg suspension. They are not as strong as high tensile.
This website has a lot of useful info
http://www.britishfasteners.com/index.php
The stainless isnt nessesarily weaker from day one, however it is less ductile than a non stainless bolt. In saying that there are hardened bolts that are brittle too!
More often than not the safest bet is to replace like for like. Dissimilar metals will suffer from electrolytic corrosion but this can be minimised by using either a copper based grease or simply a white grease.
Another useful tip is that not every fastener needs to be murdered tight, sometimes less is more!
The spring washers that are used everwhere on a minor are not nessesarily the best choice given the options in modern fasteners. Once a nut is tight the spring is effectively a flat washer and the split allows the exposed thread to oxidise. On the other hand a lot of those washers have lasted over 40 years already so they cant be that bad!