Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all

I have a MG metro dual outlet cast-iron exhaust manifold that I want to put on my 1098.

I will have to get the down-pipes made up.

Here is my question: What is the correct length of the pipes between the manifold and the Y-piece? Or doesn't it make any real difference?

Does anyone make the required part to suit Moggies? I am in Australia, but it might be worth buying the downpipes in the UK, correctly fabricated.

Cheers
Don

There was a twin downpipe made for a Minor with an Ital cast manifold. I cannot comment as to whether the twin pipes are identically aligned on both castings (the ital is a combined inlet/exhaust, the MG has a separate inlet) but they look very similar. Perhaps someone can confirm?

I believe they are the same. But it's all a bit dubious for a low revving (= low power) 1098 engine !

Hi Roy

The MG metro exhaust is part of a package of bits intended to provide a modest warm-up, using factory parts.

It will go with MG Metro intake, HIF38, MG Metro cam and a 12G940 head (and an overall freshen-up).

Back to the length of the divided section of the downpipes. Can anyone give me an idea of what is considered the right length?

Cheers
Don

That should go well enough - be SURE to fit a crankshaft damper - and DO NOT rev it above 6000 rpm - so don't fit fancy/double valve springs. If hot climate - you would be wise to fit an oil cooler (13 row) too and a 74 degree thermostat. I assume you know what must be done to stop the valves hitting the block - and to align the rockers over the valve tips..... As you suggested earlier - take the pipes through the hole in the bulkhead and then join them in the Y.

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this is a pic of my full stainless LCB. that final Y piece (where it goes down to one pipe) comes just after the hole in the bulkhead, in fact with the front wheel off, you can see the Y in the wheelarch. hope that's of some use!

Thanks again for the replies

Yes Roy, I have a crankshaft damper. I don't intend to rev it hard. I'll have a tacho to keep an eye on revs.

Thanks for the pic Chris--looks like an interesting rebuild.

Cheers
Don

this is a pic of my full stainless LCB. that final Y piece (where it goes down to one pipe) comes just after the hole in the bulkhead, in fact with the front wheel off, you can see the Y in the wheelarch. hope that's of some use!

And if you are very lucky you buy one that doesn't touch the bulkhead aperture and make a right old din.

mine was fine!