Morris Minor Owners Club

I would be really grateful for some guidance here.

Inherited a '56 4 door minor that has been garaged for 15 yrs or so. Got it running, and now replacing seized brakes. When looking at the rears, I noticed fairly severe corrosion on top of the rear axle where the U-bolts attach it. Also, there appears to be a leak from one of the "shocks" and the diff looks a little wet. My question is how easy is it to replace a rear axle ? As I understand it, the old diff was fine (apart from a leak) and the half-shafts were fine. What bits should I replace as a matter of course when re-assembling the axle in its new housing ? Also, where is the best place to jack the car up when removing the axle ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

With thanks,

bushhouse

Im just refurbing my rear axle at the moment - I am fitting new pinion and wheel bearing oil seals and of course new gaskets and O rings on the half shafts and the diff gasket.

One of my wheel bearings was a bit worn so Im replacing both of those as well.

You should consider replacing the rubber spring pads U bolts and retaining plates and if you are removing the springs its worth brushing them off and repainting.

You might consider a new brake hose and pipes and new nuts and bolts for the brake plates whilst youre at it depending on the condition of yours.

I think the best place to support the body is by placing a 4x2 timber across where the axle bump stops hit the chassis but someone else may know better?

As taupe explains - it is worth doing a good overhaul - and if you see rust - best remove the axle and check the mounting pads under the axle - where the spring locates. These can rot out - and then the axle is loose and can twist in the U bolts. Jack as suggested then support the axle under the diff casing - remove the prop shaft - remove the U bolts and the damper links - then remove the rear shackles and allow the springs to drop down pivoting on the front pins. Then lower the axle and wiggle it out..... Probably a good idea to renew all the spring pin bushes (use polyurethane) while you are in there.......

Thanks for the guidance. Will have to try and find a new casing and then go for it - SLOWLY but surely. Not sure it's a VERY difficult job but best to replace all that one can and is needed to ensure longevity of the rear end.

Thanks once again.

On a slightly different note, have you any views on the amount of play of the front wheels in the 12/6 position. Seems to be a little which I'm not sure is/is not normal. If not, where should one look for wear ??

Bushhouse

There should be NO play..... Kingpins and trunnions will be worn - very common if greasing is neglected.

Thanks for the response. Will look into the Kingpin/Trunnion assembly and read up about replacement. I suspect the torsion bar is the only tricky things when putting it all back together again.

Thanks once again,

bushhouse

None of it is 'tricky' - all very straightforward.