Morris Minor Owners Club

when you tighten up the handbrake cable after adjusting up the brakes, do you do it by hand until you feel it's tight, then how many turns do you tighten it? how many threads do you see on your exposed threads? do the handbrake cables need to be pretty tight to do their job?

regards!

My posting on 18th Jan, in reply to your previous posting on this subject explains exactly how to adjust the handbrake.

Yes - we have all gone over this (and several other problems) many times with you ...........
But basically - AFTER the rear brakes have been adjusted up nicely, the cables are tightened at first with the fingers - but eventually with a spanner - with many trial pulls of the handbrake lever - until the brakes are locked ON just where you want the lever. Most will be happy with 3 clicks - some prefer a longer pull of up to 5 clicks - the MOT tester may have his own views on this. The handbrake should be able to lock the rear wheels on dry tarmac at 20 mph............
If you run out of thread - you either haven't correctly tightened the rear brakes in the drums, or the cable has stretched and needs replacing.

Hans Dieter made a simple jig for setting the handbrake do that it bites evenly on both sides.
The German TÜV (MOT) failed him on uneven handbrake settings and demanded a re-test (not free of charge here!)
When the brakes have been adjusted, this simple jig can be used. Line up the brake drums so that there is enough clearance to lift the jig. Pull the handbrake to say a click below your desired setting. Then lift the jig by pulling the scales up taking note of the readings on both sides when the drums start to slip. Re-adjust the cable until you have it as even as possible on both sides. On the re-test there were no more questions asked-so it works. It basically similar to what the MOT does except they check it with rollers. Modern luggage scales are cheap on ebay for those who like to go digital.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Regards
Declan+Hans Dieter Gollus

Enterprising! I like it!

so long as it doesn't fall off the single trolley jack in the middle!

Nice and stable - that's how I jack my Trav !

i love the jig. very clever.

this is exactly why i am enjoying the morris right now.

bmc, i have pulled the threads up by hand, and got them as tight as i can with a bit of elbow work.

i just wanted to ask those more experienced how many turns with the spanner do they do to make the cables taut. i could see the cables taut at the mot station. one side wasn't as taut as the other. i guess this jig would make things easier, and wouldn't be too hard to make.

there is plenty of thread left to tighten up, i believe the drums are tightened up and backed off one. lots of wear left before another click needed.

just a couple of switches to sort and the golden green ticket is mine! i am going to have an online party when i get it and you're all invited!

I don't normally use a spanner on them, but then I'm happy with 5 or 6 clicks.
Now that the MOT testers use rollers to check the balance the number of clicks has lost it's relevance.

To balance them I do the same as Hans Dieter but just going from one to the other and getting the same amount of drag on both sides one click off tight or how ever many clicks it takes to feel significant drag.
Never fails an MOT, TUV standards may well be a bit higher.

The MOT lad may fail on 'excessive movement' if there are too many clicks before the brake binds - certainly the cables must not be too tight to make the brakes drag - that IS a fail.........