Morris Minor Owners Club

my front driver side brake has started to make a scuffing sound when i brake, this wasnt there before, but its just reared its in the past few days.
when i checked the shoes before the mot, they had plenty of pad left on, so i dont think that they have worn out already.

any ideas?

Just the adjustment not quite nipped up?

i thought that, but having just checked, all correct and the drum rotates with no scuffing, untill the brae is applied, then the scuff sound becomes noticable

Would imply the pad isn't moving enough. Set it so that it is very nearly or just touching with the brake when off, then see if when it is applied it still just scuffs or works properly. I presume you have also checked ur fluid level and for any leaks?

Hello Chris,

I would take the drum off and carefully look for witness marks where it could be binding. Possibly the drum catches the backplate when the brake is applied?

Alec

it might just be a small piece of grit in the drum.

A small stone in the drum makes a major racket so it won't be anything big.

Or it may have got water in it and the drum brake surface is rusty?

The stone/grit theory sounds good - but it could also be a sticking cylinder and one shoe has worn down. Better look and see!!

possibly a broken snail/adjuster thingy, done any heavy sudden braking recently?

take the drum off and check, a stitch in time could save you nine.

My best guess is that the cylinder isn't sliding freely in the backplate slot because of muck thrown up in this foul weather.

Only the rear cylinders slide in slots, the front cylinders are fixed. It is possibly a brake shoe not quite centralised in the drum and just catching as the drum rotates.

take the drum off and check, a stitch in time could save you nine.

Ditto

Return springs on the outside of the shoes, rather than the inside?

all sorted, the shoe had slipped to one side abit and was rubbing on the drum. all fixed with the aid of a hammer

they should self adjust in that respect. make sure (next time the drums off) that the sliding parts are lightly lubricated, i use a smudge of copper grease. i put a bit where the shoe slides in the back of the opposing cylinder, where the base of the adjuster sits on the piston face, and a bit on the backplate where it touches the side of the shoe. don't use too much or the brakes suffer!

Certainly can't see why a hammer would be required! Most unusual - the shoes can't really slip - even without the daft 'bee-hive' springs.

i think the end that slips on the other cylinder had got some grit or something in it, works perfectly fine now

As long as it works!