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Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:22 pm
by borristheminor
Has anyone attempted to replace roof gutters on a 2 door car. Is it reasonably easy and do the ESM ones fit. What is involved in the repair.
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 9:09 am
by Matt Tomkins
i repaired mine - to replace them, the old ones are spot welded on, so would need grinding off, the new ones would need the same doing in reverse, and then filling and matching with plenty of p38.
on mine, i ground out the worst, then used a rotary wire brush to get everything back to bare metal.
i then primed with red-oxide, and bridged holes with p40, sanded back and matched with p38
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:38 pm
by IaininTenbury
Never done a saloon, but have done a few vans and a traveller. The saloon guttering is normally the van/traveller gutter with the shaped bit to go round the lower screen piller/bonnet area and another section of straight for the rear part.
Never used the ESM gutters but guess they're all similar.
To fit, drill out the spot welds or grind off the old gutter. Use a soft sanding disc to clean up the panel behind to avoid gouging it too much. Cut out and weld in any new bits if that is rusted through anywhere.
Start fitting the new gutter from the front, to get the curved angled part lined up. If the rest of the gutter is supplied straight it can easily be bent to match the profile of the roof by bending it over a round object - such as your leg! Its obviouslt cheaper and easier to post it out in straight lengths...
If you have a spot welder, if you clean up both sides of the roof edge yuo can simply spot weld the new on. IT will need to be a good welder as what you are attching it to is already two pieces welded together, so its three piece sandwich.
If you dont have acces to a spot welder, punch or drill a series of holes about 1.5" apart, clamp the gutter in place, starting from the front and mig weld through the holes replicating the spot welds. You shoudl aim for a slightly bulged weld that fills the hole and can be sanded back flush afterwards with the soft backed sanding pad inthe angle grinder.
It'll be a fiddly time consuming job, especially on a saloon but not too technically demanding and satisfying when its done...
Hope that helps
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 1:49 pm
by taupe
Ian
What do you use/recommend to seal the gutter after fitting - the old Prestik sealing strip dosent seem to be available any more?
Taupe
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:44 pm
by IaininTenbury
Any Automotive seam sealant that can be overpainted. Car paint suppliers will sell something suitable. Fits in a sealant gun and once you've applied a bead, running a finger down the guttering presses it into the join and gives it the correct looking curve. Probably how the originals were done too!
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:24 pm
by mogbob
As with all grinding activity make sure all the glass and paintwork is well protected from flying hot metal, before you start !!
Bob
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:44 am
by MGs
My skill level and budget mean that grinding off and replacing is not on the cards. I am going to wire brush and grind off the rust and repair with fibreglass (within my capability) and finish with filler. However, I have a question about the profile of the gutter. Is the gutter J shaped with an upward facing lip as in other BMC cars? Of is it just a flat section? It is had to tell with what is left on my car.
Cheers
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:03 am
by MGs
Been to local garages, there is not enough left for the repair panels to be welded to, so going to stick with my original plan.
I have a big question. Is the roof gutter of uniform width? Or is it wider over the doors and taper in at the front and back?
I don't suppose it matters, but I would like to make something as near the original as possible.
Cheers
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:50 am
by IaininTenbury
The guttering strip is about an inch wide (25mm if you're that way inclined) when flat so when formed the overall width will be about 3/4" and same width throughout its length. fits snugly against the roof edge so only the curved part hangs out over the door. Will try and get photos if that helps.
Re: Replacing roof gutters
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 12:58 pm
by MGs
Thanks, sounds about the size of what I have made. I am just about to repair the gaps between what is left of the old gutter
and the roof (several holes!). I'm then going to fit the replacement plastic in 3-3 sections, rear to back of the drivers door, drivers door, windscreen to bonnet. May be able to do the 2nd and 3rd as one piece. Shouldn't matter as I will have to fibreglass over the whole lot anyway.