Morris Minor Owners Club

I had to remove both torsion bars completekly in order to get at the bushes in the eyebolt - they were almost totally destroyed! No wonder I was getting some shake when braking !!!

So to refit (according to the manual and please correct me if I have this wrong!) I re-assemble the suspension components with the rear lever removed from splines on the torsion bar, then jack up the lower suspension arm until there is a difference of 5 5/8" between inner and outer pivot pins. Then slide rear lever onto splines and bolt through the plate into the crossmember. Is this the best way to set them?

Sounds OK, make sure they go back on the same side they came off.
They develop a set having been twisted in the same direction for 40 years or so.

It is not a job I have done very often, however I would have marked the position of the lower arm on the torsion bar. You should be able to see which hole in the back plate was used.
Assemble enough parts of the suspension to be able to stand the car on its wheels, ie just fit the front and rear lower arms. The car should stand with the centre line of the torsion bar 10 11/16in above the floor or roughly you should just be able to get you hand edgeways between the wheel arch and the top of the wheel. Each spline will adjust the suspension height by 1.5in.
When you have the correct height fit the remaining suspension parts and tighten eveything up.
When jacking up the suspension great care must be taken to ensure that the car is properly supported and the jack is securely located under the suspension.

You really didn't need to take the T bars off! Eyebolt bushes etc are easily done with the T bar in position - and the rear half of the front arm still on the splines - just slid back slightly so the eyebolt can be pulled out of the chassis leg.

Yes I'd forgotten the trick of removing the eyebolt...DOH!.....it's been ten years since I last did this!

In any case the bars and lever are filthy and covered in 1953 Underseal, so a good opportunity to give them a good clean up and repaint. Then will refit statically as in the manual, as I won't be able to put the car back on wheels until I have sorted my hub problem out.

Once all back together is it easy to tweak them to adjust height on each side? How do you relieve the tension of the bar so that the nut through the plate at the rear can be removed and the position changed safely?

Just move the arm on the front splines - easy to do - I used to do it at the start of a Rally if I heard there would be rough roads ahead! So just get the weight on the bars and let it settle down - then adjust if needs be.

Thanks for the advice Roy, but bit confused when you say the front splines. How do you remove the lower suspension arm from the front splines with everything in place? I thought the adjustment needed to be at the rear lever on the cross member?

Never touched the rear splines - just separate the front arms - take the suspension load on a jack on the rear half of the arm and pull the front away - with kingpin attached. Then lower the jack till the T bar is unloaded. Bash the arm back until it comes off the splines - move it to the new position - bash it back into place - load up the T bar and refit the front half and tighten up. I could do it without taking the wheel off! Obviously if you really want to fiddle with the rear location you can do so once the load has been taken off the T bar,

Thanks Roy. I think either way will work OK. Now to check "Original Morris Minor" to see what colour to paint everything. I must admit I am horrified to think about how perished those eyebolt rubber were....bits of crumbly old hard rubber just fell out! Amazingly enough the pins seem undamaged.

You were lucky! On my lowlight it had also destroyed the eyebolt as there was a big groove cut into it

Good chance while in there to pop a washer or two behind the eyebolt - and lose some of the positive camber - maybe even gain a tiny bit of negative camber! You will need to retrack the wheels after - but you should do that anyway after renewing all these bushes.

Thanks Roy, will look at doing that. As far as retracking the wheels how best to do this at home without all that fancy alignment equipment?

Home made gauge! Mine is a length of Dexion (pre-driled/slotted angle steel = grown -up Meccano!) - with two shorter arms bolted rigidly on sticking out at the front - just wider than Minor track. One arm is set against the tyre side-wall (from the front) at hub height (prop the gauge on bricks) and the other sits along side the other tyre - the gap is measured with a steel rule. Then push the gauge through under the car - and set it up again this time on the rear part of each tyre side wall again at hub height - and again measure the gap. Difference is the toe-in or out on the wheels. To check - roll the car forwards half a turn - and you should get the same figures. Make sure both track rod ends are screwed on the track rods the same number of turns - and any adjustments you make must be done on both track rod ends.

Thanks for the tips.

I've done a very dumb thing - after cleaning up and repainting the torsions bars (which look great!) I think I MAY have mixed them up - 90% sure I know which was left and which was right but not 100% sure. I had them carefully seperated right up until the last minute then picked them to show someone and suddenly realised I wasn't sure which one was which

I know you are supposed to keep them on the side they came off. If I do end up fitting the wrong way round what will the consequences be? Is there a danger they could snap?

I quote from the Manual
"A torsion bar which has been fitted and used on one side of the car must on no account be transferred for use on the other side.
The torsion bars are only interchangeable when new. They become handed once they have been in service and must from then on always be used on the same side of the car"

The drivers side one may have been marked by the master cylinder bolts if the have ever been fitted the wrong way round.

Wont be much more than small shallow dents, but worth looking for.

Yeah checked for dents from the Master Cylinder bolts but both arms straight and true and no sign of any marks. They have now been painted in a nice silver finish and look great, but a bit concerned I have mixed them up Pretty sure I have them right but can't be certain. What do you think the worst that could happen would be? Is it dangerous in any way or is it more a case of the height may not be correct?

Worst case has to be if they snap I guess.

Can't see it happening myself, they were highly over engineered as they were concerned about even using torsion bars.

Seem to recall fro one of the Minor books that they did all sorts of tests but found them almost indestructible.

If they go back as they were, I'd expect little on no settlement, probably quite a lot if they go on the wrong sides.

I do recall reading they were somewhat over engineered, so guess if I fit wrong sides then car might sit a little high and I can adjust that. As I say, 90% sure I have them right but can't be totally sure.

Don't worry about it - go with your gut feeling.