Morris Minor Owners Club

Afternoon all

I have bought a spin on oil filter conversion kit.

Please can anyone advise if it is ok to use copper slip on the block, then gasket and copper slip on the housing and then the gaskt.

Also please can anyone let me know the torque settings for the new studs into the block and the nuts to secure the housing to the block / studs.

Ta

CK

Hi CK. I just smeared the gasket with a little oil so it didn't go in dry and then did the bolt up to FT spec...

its holding out so far.....

A quick hint for you, when removing the feed pipe from the housing dont trust that the end will spin freely....

Torque settings - Tight
You will probably need a chain wrench to remove the canister when you next change your oil.
Hand tight should be enough when you fit the canister

Does anyone else find the canister too close to the chassis to get the chain past without banging/levering a dent in the canister? I'm using a Halfords brand filter intended for a Metro, maybe it's too tall?

i use a filter remover tool that goes on a socket set .it has 3 prongs that are on a camb and it tightens up as you undo the filter draper make them .

Did you find that the studs that screw into the block were exceptionally tight?

Regards

John

Thank you for the replies.

Do I need to put any type of sealant on the pipe that goes on to the filter housing.

Apologies if I am asking obvious or basic type questions but I am not a mechanic or mechanically minded. That said I don't mind having a go though.

Nice one

CK.

You shouldn't need anything on the pipe.
Don't go bonkers tightening everything up, stripped threads are a lot harder to sort out than just nipping the offending bit up a bit more.

A good smear of oil on the rubber ring of the filter, spin it up until it touches then maybe 1/16 of a turn should do.
If it weeps, nip it up a little more.

The engine isn't going to self destruct if some oil drips out while you are doing this.

One very useful thing about spin on filters is that you can fill them with oil before you fit them without having it all run down your arm.

It doesn't run down my arm with the original filter casing! If it wasn't for the fact that some original filters have lost the spring and/or pressure plate - I would say stick with the original and don't bother with spin on.......... But since it does eliminate that possibility - I guess it is worth doing the conversion - although I will be sticking to the original. But then - I have a lifetime supply of elements for it - and for my TR7 which has the same filter!

Spring and pressure plate are still obtainable I got mine from charles ware of bristol. Spring £0.90p and pressure plate £1.75 + the dreaded vat.

Oh yes - but many don't realise they should be there - and change filters quite oblivious to the damage being done to the engine........

Thank you for the replies.

Please can anyone advise what if any type of sealant do I need to put on the spin on coversion housing between the block of the engine and the new spin on type housing?


Thanks a lot.

CK

None whatsoever! Just the gasket. The simplest way to do the job is get parts from a Mini engine in a scrappy! As mentioned earlier - the biggest risk is in damaging the feed pipe when removing/refitting it. Gang warily!

Spin on kit now fitted and all working fine.

But that feed pipe had me using some funny language.

Thanks again for the tips and advice to all who replied, it was appreciated.

CK.

Great success!