Morris Minor Owners Club

I fitted the prop shaft today and filled the gearbox with oil to the bottom of the fill hole. When I came back there was a small amount of oil on the floor below where the propshaft fits into the gearbox. Does this mean that the oil seal is no good and if so can it be changed with the gearbox still in the car. I have looked through a parts catalogue and it mentions a bronze bush for g/box tail shaft and a gearbox rear tailshaft oil seal. Are these the parts I need to stop the oil leak and are they easy to change. The engine and geabox are ones I swapped for my old 803 engine I only heard and tried the engine and gearbox at the time of purchase. Cheers for any advice hoping to start the car tomorrow so if I need any parts I will get them first thing.

The oil seal can be changed- the bronze bush needs to be reamed to size after it's fitted - and can't be done with the output shaft in place - so that would be gearbox (or maybe just the tail shaft assembly?) out. Can you feel much 'play' in the prop where it exits the box ? I would try a seal - and hope for the best!

I will get a seal tomorrow and try that, I never tried the prop for play. Lets hope I can get away with a seal. Cheers for the help

I had a similar problem and had to replace the front yoke on the propshaft in the end. Worth checking it while it's out. The gearbox tailshaft seal on mine was quite tight and even though the gearbox was out at the time I replaced it, it took a while to shift it. It won't be that easy doing it with the box in the car as access is limited but it's doable.
Regards
Declan

I have got good access to the car at the moment as it is still on ramps at the front and jacks at the back so theres plenty of room to get underneath. I have just got the rear tailshaft oil seal I will check the prop when I take it off again. Whats the best approach to get the old oil seal off hammer, chisel , grips ? And do I need to use any hylomar inside the new metal part of the oil seal before I push it on, tap it on whats the the best way to put the new one on. Cheers

I do think you may need to chisel the old seal off - and yes i would do a spot of Hylomar round the end before fitting the new seal - careful so as not to distort it!

If the seal is the type that has a small spring all the way around the inside to keep it snug on the shaft, I suggest that you fill the groove w/grease or vaseline before installing the seal. This prevents the spring from jumping out of place as they do sometimes.
Also wipe some oil on the yoke shaft before you put it back in, so that the seal doesn't start out life dry.

Cheers I will be on it tomorrow, started the car for the first time since putting it back in the car and after about half a dozen goes she fired into life, running a bit lumpy where I have changed the needle and jet, sounds a bit to lean.
Anyway a lovely 3.45am start in the morning then back home to bed for a couple of hours so I will start the seal tomorrow afternoon. Hammer,chisel, blowtorch at the ready.

katy wrote:If the seal is the type that has a small spring all the way around the inside to keep it snug on the shaft, I suggest that you fill the groove w/grease or vaseline before installing the seal. This prevents the spring from jumping out of place as they do sometimes.
Also wipe some oil on the yoke shaft before you put it back in, so that the seal doesn't start out life dry.

Sound advice-the one I used was from ESM, it has the spring and the felt seal which I would also lubricate.[frame][/frame]
Regards
Declan

Thanks for all the info I managed to get the old seal off without to much damage, I used plenty of grease and hylomar on the new seal. It went on well I used the old seal over the top of the new one to help drift it into place and to minimize the damage to the new one. The old seal was hard and cracked in a couple of places but its all sealed well now.

Now for my next problem regarding the clutch pedal. When I adjusted the clutch to get the gears, the pedal arm sits high in fact higher than the floor it is nearly vertical without the the gearbox floor cover on. If I put the floor cover on it holds the clutch pedal arm down to the right height. The clutch works fine with or without the cover.
These are the items being used
1956 Split Screen car
1098 Gearbox with correct floor cover
New clutch fitted
New clutch relay shaft and fittings
I presume the original clutch pedal which is held in place on the shaft by a cotter pin
And the original round bar with cotter pins either end connecting the clutch pedal and relay shaft.

I did buy the two clutch linkage plates but the clevis pin supplied which goes thru the clutch arm was to big for the hole in the clutch arm. Thats why I used the old round bar and cotter pins.
Is this the correct way that the clutch pedal arm should be or should it remain down without the floor cover on, and if so how do I manage it. Thanks

Can anyone advise with the pedal height I want to try and get it sorted tomorrow cheers

Adjust it with the floor fitted, and make sure there is some free play at the pedal, say an inch.

Have you got the 1098 engine and clutch?
As long as you can push the clutch pedal down about 1 in by hand and the box does not grate when selecting 1st/rev with the clutch fully depressed then you should be ok

Mike I have fitted the 1098 engine and clutch and also the correct ratio axle and 8" brakes front and rear. I have tried to upload some photos showing the pedal height but they will not load they are in jpeg as requested by the instructions.

They could be too big and then you just get a blank screen.
See
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... ze#p317727
Regards
Declan

Thanks declan.[frame][/frame]

With plate fitted the pedal travels about 1" before the clutch engages. Just wondered if it was normal for the pedal to sit so high without the plate[frame][/frame]

Yes!

What 8in brakes are you using on the rear, all Minor rears are 7in?

Sounds like my mistake I thought that 7" brakes were used on the early cars and then they were changed to 8" on later cars. So what would be the best brake set up for a 1098 engine, I have got a complete set up of front discs and calipers which will take a morris minor wheel. But if I were to fit these would the standard master brake cylinder be okay or would i have to upgrade to something different and if so what would be a good set up for the back. Thanks