Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all - need some clarification please on two topics relating the engine backplate (between engine and flywheel)

I am restoring a Morris 1000 convertible from a wreck, and she is soon to receive her newly recon'd 1098 engine and gearbox. I find in my store of parts two different backplates - one a solid steel approx 1/4" thick one, and one made from approx 1/8" thick steel, but with the edges curved towards the gearbox. Which is the correct one? (and what is the other?). I assume it makes a difference as one would put the clutch assembly 1/8" closer the thrust bearing than the other. Both are stamped MOWOG, and I have both 948 and 1098 engines and gearboxes in the 'store', so they could have come from either, or indeed a 1275 I had once.

Secondly, both plates have the circular cup-shaped oil pump covers loose - they can easily be removed by hand. I believe these were soldered in place originally (although I can see no evidence of solder) - do I need to redo this, or is there a more modern, simpler, more effective alternative thses days? If I do need to resolder any tips on what to do/not do? I assume a good seal is necessary to avoid oil entering into the clutch housing (although every backplate I have ever removed had oil/black c**p on the clutch side in this area.

Thanks in anticipation.

Mick

Thick backplate for 1098/1275 use - check if there are any cracks starting in it! Thin is for 803/948. The oil pump cover was NOT soldered in place - one of the many 'myths' I'm afraid. No oil should be present behind the pump. Abd there is a drain hole at the base of the oil pump cavity in the block anyway....... Note if you fit a new 'modern' pump (and you should!) - you may need to modify it slightly to get it to fit behind the cover

..... and thanks bmecosse for another prompt, useful .... and in this case .... very convenient (for me) reply.

Mick