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Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
by Chris Morley
My front O/S shock absorber has started leaking. This causes wheel wobble and bouncing if the oil isn't replaced. It works fine when topped up so presumably the only problem is caused by perished rubber seals.

Is it possible to obtain these seals and fit them yourself, or is it so difficult that it easier and quicker to get a reconditioned shock from a specialist ?

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
by newagetraveller
My front RHS shock absorber failed about 5 years ago.
I got an exchange reconditioned one from my local motor factors.
I think it cost about £20.

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
by olonas
Just changed my front dampers, same problem! Exchange front and rear recon. units cost around £16 - £17 from Minor spares specialists. Best to change the pair. [ This Message was edited by: olonas on 04-06-2002 21:23 ]

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
by Kevin
Hi Chris
This came up on another site recently and to repair the seals requires factory equipment, and as the recon units are quite cheap £20.00. However be warned the taper links on the end of the arms can be very difficult to remove so if you wish to do the job in one day get a couple around £3.00 each, even our local specialist Minor Mania uses a 5 ton fly press and often send them to the reconditioners with the link still in place as the time taken with heating them up ect will cost more than just replacing the links, also do the top bushes while you have them apart if you are still using the rubber ones as you have to take them out anyway, let us know the outcome.
Kevin

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
by Chris Morley
All advice gratefully received. I guessed that it wasn't a home repair job as the specialists don't offer replacement seals.

Kevin - thanks for the advice about the links/bushes . I'll make sure I'm fully stocked before starting the job. Luckily it can wait until there is good weather.

Job Done

Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:07 am
by Chris Morley
Well, that only took about 3 hours, fitting a new damper + arm , upper link, damper arm pivot bolt & two poly bushes. It's certainly solved the wheel wobble and bouncing on the offside. However it's now clear that the N/S damper is borderline as well even though that doesn't leak.

Many thanks to Kevin for the invaluable advice about the taper link . I only wasted a little time trying to separate the old pivot bolt from the damper arm. I doubt there is a way to do this with typical DIY tools unless heat is applied. If there is a way I would be interested to know how.