Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello.

I have just had a set of wheels sand blasted and now intend to spray them at home, but the last time I did this I wasn't too happy with the results.

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I was planning to spray with grey primer and then spray topcoat in dark silver, but I have a few questions.

1) Do I need to treat them with something before the first coat of primer? or rub them down (and with what?)
2) 2 coats of standard grey Halfords primer or is there something better? rub down between coats?

I used red-oxide primer last time and couldn't get the hammerite I used to stick properly

3) Top coat is going to also be from rattle cans - how many coats and rub-down between?
4) Should I lacquer then when I've finished?
5) I am planning to spray the whole wheel - both sides and rim - does this cause problems for fitting tyres afterwards?

Sorry for all the questions but I've forked out a lot for the wheels and I want to get them right (but can't afford to get someone else to do it).

thanks
Simon

[quote="sgray"]Hello.


I was planning to spray with grey primer and then spray topcoat in dark silver, but I have a few questions.

1) Do I need to treat them with something before the first coat of primer? or rub them down (and with what?)

The wheels should have been etch primed immediately after blasting, then a few coats of primer, let dry, sand (400 grit), few more coats of primer, sand (600- 800 grit) if you sand through, dust bare metal areas with etch primer.

2) 2 coats of standard grey Halfords primer or is there something better? rub down between coats?

Get some primer, either from your local paint supplier or even one of the Morris Minor suppliers- likely to be cheaper than Hellfrauds and good quality.

3) Top coat is going to also be from rattle cans - how many coats and rub-down between?

If you have sanded thhe primer down flat then you will not need to flat the top coat on the wheels, people don't usually wet sand their roadwheels, two- three coats of wheel silver should suffice.

4) Should I lacquer then when I've finished?

if you use decent quality wheel silver paint then lacquer will not be needed- again see your paint supplier for quality paints.

5) I am planning to spray the whole wheel - both sides and rim - does this cause problems for fitting tyres afterwards?

no, the paint build will be very thin. Let the paint harden for a week before getting the tyres fitted and use a tyre fitter that takes care!

Chickenjohn beat me to it.Spot on reply which I endorse.

Get the tyre fitter, when he balances the wheels to put the balance weights on the inside of the tyres, so that all your good work is not spoiled !!

Bob

Hello Mogbob,

"when he balances the wheels to put the balance weights on the inside of the tyres"

Perhaps a bit nit picking considering the width of the Minor rim, but doing that means the wheel won't be in dynamic balance.

I have seen this advice before, especially by people with alloy wheels but the balance weight should be opposite the heavy spot and in line with it . Doing it diametrically can set up a shimmy. To explain what I mean, think of a propshaft with a heavy spot at one end. Correction is a weight 180 degrees arond the shaft at that point, putting the weight at the other end means you now have imbalance at both ends.

Alec

They are only wheels - don't go 'overboard' on them. Plenty of paint is the answer - let it dry thoroughly - and yes - I would spray lacquer on too. Tyre fitting will need to be done ultra carefully - just take your time - if you lube the tyre beads well (swarfega) - and then pop them on without using any tyre levers! A rubber mallet helps - but not strictly necessary - you should manage it with your thumbs. You may not need any balance weights - I did 4 tyres on LP917 wheels in the Spring and no balancing required. Smooth as paint up to silly speed!

Alec
Your comments are noted and duly acknowledged as correct.
Using the old style weights, clipped to the rim are one option but newer style weights stuck to the rim alow the skilled tyre fitter to place the weights more effectively.
As you say with a standard Moggie it's unlikely to be critical that "perfect" balance is achieved.
Bob

I certainly wouldn't put much effort into trying to rub them down between coats.
There is so much shape to them that you will sand though the high bits in no time at all.

Another point! Clean the wheels with panel wipe and a cloth (or clean paper kitchen towel) before spraying the primer and topcoat. Cleanliness is vital for a good paint job.

I agree with BMC that balancing the wheels may not be necessary. Didn't seem to make any difference on my Traveller!

I'm ambivalent about the use of lacquer though. If you want more protection/shine, spray another coat of wheel silver. Though silver is not the "shiniest" of colours and the wheel does not have a large area to reflect any shine, like a body panel.

Never used lacquer. Just many light coats of paint, which gradually build up the shine.

Ok, I'm still a little at sea with this.

I've got myself an oil-free compressor so that I can do another job on the house and I've found a website that will sell me some cellulose Triumph Tahiti Blue, which I'll need to spray a few bits that are a bit tatty on the truck.

It seems like a good idea to get a spray gun and teach myself how to use it and if I'm doing that then I may as well do the wheels that way to.

I understand that I need to do a 50/50 mix with thinners, so I have a couple more questions;

Is "Standard Cellulose Thinner" ok? or should I buy the high gloss stuff?

How much paint should I buy to spray 5 wheels? it comes in 250ml, 500ml and 1L pots. It is quite pricey.

Simon

Hello Simon,

paint is expensive, but the overall cost is much less if you can do your own.

You need good quality thinners for top coat, standard thinners for the primer. However for wheels it's your choice, personally I wouldn't look for a body finish on wheels.

Alec

250ml should be enough - surely ? But search around - it doesn't need to be that expensive. What colour are you going to do the wheels ? A 'rattle' spray can of wheel paint may be the best way to go!

I'm going to do the wheels dark silver I've decided. I have a vague notion that I might try and win some condition awards in the future and .. oh, I don't know and what.. but dark silver wheels was an option when the truck was new.

I realise I could do them with rattle cans but since I have the compressor then perhaps I should learn how to use a spray gun. The big rattle cans are 400ml - that'll not be enough for all 5 wheels though - I reckon I'd need 3 cans at least for 2-3 coats on each.

So 500ml (doubled to 1L with thinners) sounds like it might not be enough either - or do I get more paint than with the equivalent rattle cans?

thanks for the help s far

Simon

One 400 ml rattle can should be enough for the front faces of the 5 wheels- spray the backs black!

i am going to be hand painting my rims with the paintbrush, a good pro paintbrush, not synthetic, with rover white, same as the paintwork, very quick flatten down, nothing that cuts too deep, enough to key the paint for the next coat, another coat, flat back, polish and that's that! i might blow over a coat of laquer just to hold everything.