Morris Minor Owners Club

how long should it take to change the shoes, spent an hour taking the old shoes off and another hour getting stresst and having a bit of a paddy,
reason im changnig as my handbreak dosnt work, turns out a spring had fallen off but the drums and shoes are knackerd
is there an easy way ??

cheers tom

It all depends on when it was last done and your experience.

Even now I get the shoes and springs off and put them on the ground as they came off as an aide memoir.

It gets easier and easier, the more often you do them.

well ive not touched them since having the car, so thats a year and a half, and they look to never have been touch, i have never done anything to breaks

guess im gona have to learn

Sounds about right, Tom

I replaced shoes on all 4 brakes this morning, plus new drums on the front.
Took an hour & three-quarters.

I always only do one side at a time, so that the untouched side is available for comparison. Having completed the first side, then that is the one to compare when doing the opposite .
Also took the opportunity to clean the heads of the snail screws & put white paint on...makes it easier to see them when they need adjusting

Well worth doing it, they are a lot better now.

Chris

cheers for that ,il have another go 2moro, its got its mot this week, and the handbreak didnt work at all need to get a lot sorted

A year and a half is much too long between brake services. Remember that brakes and tyres are the only things between you and a wooden box so both should be kept in top condition.
If you slacken the adjusters, remove the retaining set screws and then remove the handbrake clevis pin, ensure that the drum will rotate freely and tap the drum around the back of the lip with a hammer you should be able to remove it.
After you have refitted the brakes and adjusted them so that they work satisfactorily, then refit the handbrake cable, grease the nipples on the cables and grease the end of the cable where it comes out of the outer casing. Jack the back of the car up and support the back on axle stands. Pull the hand brake on until it just locks the brakes. Turn each tyre and if an even amount of effort is not required to turn each wheel then adjust the nuts at the handbrake end until both wheels require the same effort to turn them. Pull the handbrake one more click and the rear wheels should be locked. There should be 3 - 5 clicks on the handbrake.
Whilst the wheels are removed, grease the front swivel pins and wheel bearings and check the rear dampers and diff oil level
Don't forget to check the wheel nuts are tight when the wheels are lowered to the floor and before the hubcaps are fitted.

It really is very simple to change shoes - what was the problem - getting the drums off?

it was getting the new shoes on, drums were stuck on though

Just hook the heavier spring on both shoes - offer them up just inside the wheel hub and then slip the upper spring into position - and then stretch the shoes over the cylinder and then over the fixed stop. Finally fit the adjuster into place. A long sturdy screwdriver is your friend! It really only takes a couple of minutes to do.

That's experience talking for you.

It took me a very long time, a lot of swearing and at least one paddy when I last tried to refit the rear brake shoe springs. The front shoes are far easier.

Have fun,

Mikey

got disks on the front so cant really practise, just gona have to learn on rears

Tom,

have you thought of joining Lancashire MMOC?
Living in Preston you are ideally placed.

http://www.lancashiremmoc.co.uk/

There is a Mechanics Day at Garstang this Saturday 9th October

Chris

been twice but i have to say i didnt enjoy it, didnt talk one bit about the car

Oh Dear!

I do try to get to them, if just for the crack & the pies. I tend to do the vast majority of work at home.

Never mind, was just a thought.

All the best,

Chris

got 1 side done, it only took and hour and 15 mins and a bit of help from my dad, should i be able to turn the drum easy or not

There will always be the drag of the final drive gears and the diff - but the brake should be free - only 'just' rubbing. And when you pull up the handbrake - the drum must NOT be able to turn.

The old boys down our way recommended the us of a metal file to "trim" the brake shoes. Whilst I have never found this to be necessary on the front, the rear was virtually impossible without filing the leading edge.

Have fun,

Mikey.

well it started to turn easier when i fitted the beehive spring(think thats what its called) got both sides dun, and this is the first time the handbreak has worked properly in about 6 months (always left it in gear as well) should easier pass mot

Handbrake should lock the rear wheels on dry road at 20 mph.

it use to roll on the slightest of hills