Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi All,

I have finished my 4 year rebuild on my Morris and it got it MOT'd and Tax'd last Friday. I went out for a drive in it and all was good until i lost 4th gear! I don't know any history on this gearbox as it was given to me, but i had previously used it befor the rebuild and it was naff!

I have another gearbox that i am going to replace it with and have allready removed all the bolts etc.... on the box and it is now free to move but i can't quite pull it free from the engine. It seems to be hitting the steering rack.

I noticed late yesterday night that the exhaust manifold was resting on the car and not allowing the engine to drop.

I think with the exhaust removed it will be ok, but can you think of anyting i will need to remove to do the exchange with out removing the engine (preferebly).

Thanks All.

It's always awkward - you have to twist it round to clear the rack as soon as it comes off the little dowels on the engine block. Try NOT to let the input shaft damage the delicate clutch springs/release pad on the way out - and way in. Loss of 4th gear is very unusual - because it is a straight through drive in 4th - interesting to hear what you find in due course.

I've got a feeling that disconnecting the engine steady may help too.
While you are in the area, I'd remove the heater valve too, though it may depend which type is fitted.

In addition to those mentioned above don't forget the top rad hose, you'll also need to remove starter motor as bolts go through g/box bellhousing.

I assume that the prop shaft is off and the gear selector is off too.

When I last had monas box out I took out the floor panel to make removing the clutch relay rod and speedo drive easier.

Good point, it also lets you get some Mole grips on the captive nuts if they try to escape captivity!
Gearbox cover off, and some penetrating oil on them would be a good first step.

I am going to have another go at it tonight and will remove all of the above mentioned items to make my life easier!

I have allready removed the floor, gearstick, drive shaft, startor motor, gearbox cross member.

I am glad no1 mentioned removing the steering rack!

Cheers all.

Well it's out!!!

I took alot of fidling back and forth and twist and turn!

Not looking forward to fitting the new gearbox tonight!

So far, so good then .

In case you get pooped, and need a breather, refitting it have a block of wood or similar to hand to rest the end on.

The gearbox shouldn't be left hanging on the input shaft.

it can be very fiddly - and the 1098 clutch makes it worse compared to the 948 (less deep) one.

removing one end of engine steady, unclamping the exhaust will help back of engine drop with gives just enough room to do it with a lot of effort.
removing the heater take off will allow the engine to drop more giving room to make it less troublesome, but does mean breaking into the water jacket and if the valve / nuts have not been disturbed for 10+ years you can add more jobs to the list...

as you probably found out already - drain the box fully and still expect more oil to come out of the output bush (where prop fits).

rotating the box (~25 to 30 degrees?) will bring the top lip of the bellhousing past the steering rack.

I once had the chance to fit a gearbox when the rack was off the car - that was a dream!!! Fitting the replacement rack was not technically difficult but took far longer than I wanted it to take!

Its in!! Not to bad a bit of a struggle on my tod but i got there in the end! Just need to refit the floor, carpet, radiator pipes etc.. and give it a test drive

In the near future i will want to change my manifold to a stainless steel one that will couple striaght to my morris big bore s/s exhaust. Does anyknow where i can get it from?

Ok test drive wasnt a success!!

It is jumping out of reverse gear!!! Any ideas?? i am able to get a metre and thats it

I havn't been able to try forward properly as its in my garage that is at the bottom of a sloped drive so i can't push the car out!

Unfortunately - sounds like a hopeless gearbox........... Where did it come from ?

I bought it from Ebay. Luckily the guy i got it from is descent and is sending me another box free of charge. Now i have 3 boxes! Might make 1 good one out of them as the 2 laying on my garage floor have differant faults, so i might be abkle to make a good one out of them.
Just waiting for delivery of my new box now.

Fingers crossed - have a look inside before wasting any time on it. Should look like this[frame][/frame]

with nice sharp/pointed teeth on the dog teeth for 2nd/3rd/4th gears - and all should look similar. If the 2nd gear dog teeth are worn - expect it to crunch and jump out of gear.........

Thanks for the pic.

I will open it up tonight then and have a look. I have never taken a gearbox apart before, so i think when i have nothing better to do i will strip it and rebuild it. Even if it is never used again and i just do it for experience.

I just need to hope this other box im being sent is a good'n.

Thanks for the help

Ok so i inspected the internals on the box and the reverse gear cogs are not squared off they are very warn and rounded off. So i guess thats why it wouldn't stay in gear! ??

While that might affect reverse gear - I can't see why it would affect 4th gear. Actually - I can't think of any reason to lose 4th gear other than major internal calamity! It's sometimes the ONLY gear left working - because it is a straight through drive.
Can you post up a pic of the internals ?

I will try and take a photo later.

On a seperate note though, i recieved and fitted my third box tested the clutch and the lever arm is hitting the casing as it is just touching the pressure plate on the clutch. I took it all back out again removed and checked the clutch it seemed ok. i also changed the lever arm from my original box as it is in much better condition, then put it back on and i have the same problem. So i fitted my first gearbox and i still have the same problem! The pedal feels like i am stressing/bending the lever arm.

Is it possibple for the clutch to collapse or stay pressed in? I have attached a photo of my clutch. Before fitting the clutch the pressure plate sticks out further that clutch surround (if thats what it can be refured to) but when fitted to the flywheel it depresses in. im not sure if this is normal or not, its just something i have noticed.

When changing over the boxes i have not removed the clutch which is strange.
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Are you using the 1098 release bearing - and is it in good condition ?