Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi there,

I have a 1970 traveller 1098cc that previously would run 60-65 mph before running rough, in the past month it has dropped to 50 mph.

The back door and window are covered in oil and I have to constantly top it up (do about 200 miles and all the oil has dissapeared). There is no blue smoke, it seems that the oil is unburnt. Holding a cloth behind the exhaust when the engine is running show specks of oil.

What could be the problem? It does not seem like the oil is seeping into the cylinders (otherwise there would be smoke). Could there be another way for oil to get into the exhaust system?

Welcome to the Forum! Look under the car - is there major oil leak evidence - usually from the back of the sump/from the little jiggle pin in the base of the gearbox bellhousing ? ? You are maybe just not seeing the blue smoke - but I bet it's there - you just can't see it through the oil spattered rear windows! I would source another engine URGENTLY - but meantime - try the pressure test. Hot engine idling - take the oil filler cap off and rev up - is there a plume of smoke/fume ? Also check is the breathers are all clear - and check the condition of the air filter - is it plastered thickly with an oily mess ?

Hi there,

Thanks for the quick reply bmcecosse,

I have not noticed oil leaks under the car when I pull away (I can't see it now it is parked elsewhere in town) although I do need to check this for sure.

I am sure about the blue smoke though - I have performed idle/rev tests before and also I took it into a specialist Morris Minor garage recently and we took the filler cap off and revved and there was no/very little smoke, we also checked the breathers (or at least I think we did, the 'breather' is the air filter mounted on the top of the engine, off to the right as you look at it?) and there was no significant mess.

The advice I got from the garage was for a relatively expensive overhaul - I am fairly practical but don't have a garage or space to work with so I can only do relatively quick/minor repairs in the street.

brendanarnold wrote:we also checked the breathers (or at least I think we did, the 'breather' is the air filter mounted on the top of the engine, off to the right as you look at it?) and there was no significant mess.

Not quite the breather feeds the air filter and the pipe may be blocked you will probably have one from the tapped chest right hand side of the engine and one from the rocker cover depending on what is fitted to the car, its possible for the pipes to become completely blocked.
It would be a good idea to get someone to follow you next time you drive it and see if they notice anything.
As Roy has suggested you need to check for leaks as using all the oil in 200miles is quite serious, I wonder if you have something unusual like a cracked sump that opens up when hot and allows the oil to be blown backwards.
A photo or two of the engine might be helpful.

Are you sure it's oil coming out of the exhaust?
Black stuff is just carbon, from breaking down the hydrocarbons in petrol.

Has the car been serviced recently? Plugs, points and filters changed, tappets and timing checked.

Blue smoke from worn rings will be visible on the overrun which is when the engine is slowing down after it has been revved.

Ideally - you want a compression test done on the engine - and come back to us with the results. But unless you can find a bad oil leak - it is going to be another engine - or a major engine overhaul to sort this out. Oh - and don't let anyone kid you on that it's the 'valve stem oil seals'

This was exactly the senario with my 1098 Trav for the last few weeks before a complete engine rebuild. No smoke/fumes at the rocker cover filler cap but after even a short run you could not see out of the back window for an oily deposit.
I can almost guarantee that even if you cant see it lots and lots of oil is coming out of the exhaust and the vortex is depositing it on the back doors and windows.
Rebuild I'm afraid

Where in the country are you? Might be someone here who is nearby and able to help.
Rob (in Cardiff, obviously)

Thanks for the replies,

I am in Bristol and so could potentially drive to Cardiff. If this weekend turns out to be free, then I plan on taking the car over to work to examine closer and I'll be able to answer some of these questions.

Well - if in Bristol and looking for a Professional assessment of the problem - I can only suggest contacting Russelat RTG Services who appears to be v helpful on Minor problems. RTG SERVICES

MORRIS MINOR SPECIALIST

MOBILE SERVICING, WELDING AND MECHANICAL REPAIRS

All work undertaken from a full rebuild to a service.

All work carried at £25 per hour.

Full service including Engine oil and filter, gearbox oil, axle oil spark plug points condenser air filter,suspension greased and ignition timing £140.

Also available is a vehicle inspection service. Morris minors can hide a multitude of sins! You can save yourself a lot of money and time with a thorough inspection. And dont be caught out by unscrupulous sellers. I can also inspect engines and gearboxes that have allegedly been rebuilt For more details on this service call or email.

TEL. 07981 002991 between 8am and 8pm 7 days a week for more info.

And no - he's NOT in Wakefield as some seem to think.

Here's an update,

There does appear to be a leak from the engine and the gearbox.

Under the spot where I had it for the past two weeks there was only a small amount of oil and the dipstick showed full - however I drove it around for a bit and parked it up and quickly a similar amount of oil had dripped out. The oil pressure lamp has been reconnected (the positive wire was disconnected) and shows low pressure on idle, but goes out when revving. This implies that the engine is leaky under pressure, or perhaps above the sump oil level (and so only leaks when the oil is mashed around in the engine).

The points where oil is leaking seem to be at a rubber seal holding the front of the engine on (see bottom left photo) and also from two threaded holes in the gearbox (should these have screws in them?!) - see photos on the right.

I don't have heavy lifting equipment, so replacing the large rubber seal might be tricky. Is this something that can be replaced without removing the engine?

Brendan[frame][/frame]

Actually there seems to be a larger leak on the seal between the gearbox and the engine too ..

" shows low pressure on idle, but goes out when revving. This implies that the engine is leaky under pressure, or perhaps above the sump oil level (and so only leaks when the oil is mashed around in the engine)." It confirms that the engine is on it's last legs!
" oil is leaking seem to be at a rubber seal holding the front of the engine on " Ehh ? A rubber seal holding the front of engine on...............???????????????????????????????????????????????
You don't need 'heavy lifting equipment' to change the engine - so why would it be needed to change an oil seal ????

The oil you are seeing on the gearbox is probably coming from the back of the engine, either the rocker box cover or, less likely, the head gasket.
Interestingly I don't see any oil on the split pin at the bottom of the bell housing which is where oil from the rear crankshaft seal would appear.

The rubber blocks at the front of the engine are the mountings, any oil on them is coming from elsewhere.

Almost certainly your leaks are being caused by pressure in the crankcase - pushing oil out past all the seals. Pressure comes from worn piston rings and bores - to test - hot engine idling, take the oil filler cap off and rev up. Is there a plume of smoke/fume ? Worth checking the breather pipe from rocker cover to air filter is all clear - and inside the rocker cover too....... And I expect the air filter element will be plastered/choked with oil on the surface too!