Morris Minor Owners Club

Relates to a 69 four door specifically the drivers door, RHD.

Should the regulator arm that raises/lowers the window be twisted?

How do you remove the regulator from the door?

Which hole does it come out of and go in via?

Cheers Charles

No, I don't think it is twisted at all (I'll have a look in the gargae later though). To remove the regulator you have to remove the door tops first. After you have removed the glass from the regulator you can then wriggle the regulator through the large hole in the inner panel. It is a right fiddly job to do though

Here's my spare - No twists as such but there is a step in the arm.....
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Thanks, the end of the arm is certainly twisted so either I bend it back in situ, which will not inform me of the reason why it twisted or remove chrome window frame. Is this straightforward to do?

The pitctures are a great help.

I presume the hole you refer to is the lower one nearest the front of the car, the one which has a strengening cross piece in it?

Cheers

Yes, that's the hole. The stregthening piece comes out too once you have removed all the bolts that hold the frame in. The lower middle two bolts for the centre part of the frame also hold the strengthening bar in place..... Other frame bolts are in the side of the door apperture (top area behind grommets as you open the door) and there are two nuts under the quarter light area inside the door apperture - These are usually siezed so need lots of release oil before removing otherwise you wil snap the studs off.... I did say it was a PITA job didn't I ???

Understand the PITA reference.
The 2 studs, rear nut come off but getting the front one is awkward not having hamds like Twizzel! Is it best to undo the door lock mechanism to provide more space to get to the 7/16 AF nut as my sockets are to short and minimal room for an OE spanner.

Where is the grommet you mention? The rear vertical face only has a small, 10mm grommet which looks like a rustproofing access hole plug at the very bottom of the door? The only other 2 bolt heads are mid-way down the door.

Murphy was rebuilt by Charles Ware approx 11 years ago so could this door be a replacement or just a late production door as the holes are not as large as appear in the manuals/handbooks I have.

Would taking some digital photo's help?

Too late for me now but remind me tomorrow and I'll take some pics

Found a pic showing the grommets in the outer edge. 1 at the top and 2 half way down. This is a 2 door but the fixings are the same.....
[frame][/frame]

Ahh, picture reveals things word don't.
2 immediate things vary on Murphy's front door, first that it has bolts where the grommets appear to be and secondly the lozenge shaped hole doesn't exist.
I will take photo's tomorrow and get them on here, which will be a first!

Hi from Australia

This a picture of my 1960 4 door drivers side. Shows that the hole size is different compared to the 2 door. I have added some instructions on the picture for removal of the regulator.
Hope it is of some help.[frame][/frame]

I wish my door was as shiny as that...

Thanks Australia, brilliant, a picture says a thousand words.

Abject failure in importing digital photo's, resident IT expert(19 yr old son, on UNI trip to China so consultancy service not available) has allowed lower tech mechanic, ie DAD, access to affect repairs whilst away, where have we heard that one before!

My presumption is that the 4 door version differs in the door layout and construction compared to 2 door, hence lack of grommets and large holes?

I also presume that I will not have to remove the chrome frame from the door to extract regulator, or is that expecting too much of an easy life!

As Aylesbury is experiencing intermitent precipitation, showers to monsoon deluge, I'm not complaining, unlikely to undertake the task this evening but at the week-end if allowed by the management!

Cheers

The fixings on the 2 door behind the grommets are the same as the exposed fixings on the 4 door version - They hold the frame in - and I still think you have to remove it to get the regulator past it to the hole in the door..... You might get lucky though. Let us know if you do

Hi from Australia

When I removed the window regulator I didn't need to remove the frame upright. When the upright bolt was removed the window regulator just slid past the bolt mounting below, the kink in the regulator helps this operation.

Thanks all, when I get to it, probablly next week, I will give an update on progress.

As the advert says " It's good too talk" in an accent I couldn't possibly imitate!

Cheers from an overcast Aylesbury!

Having now completed the task,teh most tedious task I have undertaken since being an apprentice, I can confirm that I did not need to remove the window frame. As guided by rcharman, thanks Australia, just remove the bracket, a real mickey mouse piece of kit and what it's function is I have no idea, unbolt the frame which provides enouigh clearance to get the agricultural window regulator past the frame and out.

It was twisted compared too the previous photo provided, so gentle persuasion via a bench vice and stilsons, soon had the arm in alignment, well near enough as this is hardly precision engineering!

Reinstatement is even more boring, watching paint dry more exciting.

I now remember why I had Ford's in the 60's rather than BMC.

Still, thanks everbody for the help, I just need to find a surgeon good at skin grafting! Any suggestions?

Task completed and watching paint dry more exciting as this is tedious!

I can confirm that you do ot need to remove the window frame, releasing the bracket9 no idea what that serves) and the lower window frame retaining bolt allows adequae cleariance to remove the winder mechanism.

The arm was twisted, reprofiled by use of a bench vice and stilson's, it is not precision engineering, so used mechant Navy training not watch makers technology.

Retrospectively I now know why,in the 60's I owned Ford's. Compared to this Morris they were light years ahead in so many way like disc brakes, macpherson struts, maintainability, performance, admittedly they did rust but not an issue then.

Oh well, this task completed and thank you all one and all for the guidance, on wards and upwards as they say!

Cheers Charles