Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all,
I just purchased a secondhand gearbox to replace my knackered one. I gather it's a pretty straightforward job but was wondering if someone would send me a photo of their clutch linkage (the parts directly attatched to the clutch pedal) as mine's been 'repaired' in the past and doesn't appear to work as it should. It also has a huge nut slung on which is acting as a spacer!

Any tips or advice would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Hi David
This seems like a familiar problem, see my post
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=32953
Have you got the older threaded adjustment link bar if so maybe you have the same problem and that nut is there to take up the slack.
The experts will probably need to know what engine gearbox combination you have, and also the linkage
I will be posting some photos of the clutch linkage in a couple of days.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17074
Here is a link to the moss catalogue web site that have a good diagram of the linkages.

it is worth noting that the rod labelled 65 on the moss diagram goes in the other way round ( split pin facing gearbox).

also, make sure you use the 1098 linkage- the failure to do so caused me untold hours of head scratching

here is pic of a linkage in situ, that i nicked from carlo (WPR678B)

Thats brilliant, cheers for the briliant response!
I'll be fitting it tomorrow so i'm sure lots of questions will follow.

This is a photo of Morris getting picked up after the evil Cornish hills destroyed his gearbox! My mates Bedford CF van is still down in Cornwall after it was taken off the road by the police who deemed it "anti-social and dangerous". classic.
Annoyingly my other mates '72 VW beetle made it back with no problems.[frame][/frame]

what do u mean anti social and dangerous in what was, haha

oh dear, your travels seem to be similar to the one me and my friends are planning, except the cf will be replaced with a midget. the midget is in a similar condition, except filler and a cheap blowover hides the dodgy structure. i hope it doesn't end in the same way!

Ah. My linkage doesnt look like that! Maybe I still have the old linkage from the original 803cc engine.
I've got as far as removing all the connections from the gearbox so now theres just the crossmember, propshaft and engine attatched to the box.

I was hoping I could do all this without taking out the engine. Is it possible? Also, how do you disconnect the propshaft?

Surely once thats done I can pull the box back, away from the engine to get it out?

thats the way i did it david, but i wouldn't count on the crossmember bolts being that free, i understant they are often rather stubborn.

what i did.
take out the drivers seat
remove tunnel
undo bell housing and crossmember mounting bolts
remove propshaft
pull gearbox out through the car
dont forget to remove the earthing strap and steady cable.

i would change to the 1098 linkage as you have a 1098 engine- this was a problem i came up against, using a series 2 linkage doesn't work!

take the propshaft off where it joins the back axel. the nuts are quarter whitworth, then just pull it free

And beware the oil will then run out of the gearbox.

I just undid all the nuts around the where the box joins the engine and then thought about taking off the prop but thought i'd check first to see if this was a good idea and my question has already beren answered! outstanding.

Let's see how it goes....

have fun getting it back in! good luck btw

Just got the box out!! Happy days. Now for the fun bit. Puttin the new one in.

Before I do though, i'd like to make sure my clutch is ok while i've got it exposed. Is there a way of telling if its in good order just from looking at it or does it need to be dis-assembled?

Needs to be disassembled I'm afraid.
If there is any sign of contact between the rivets on the front and the flywheel, the plate is shot.
Any scoring anywhere is a bad sign, loose springs in the cover are a bad sign as is any lack of symmetry.
You'll need a clutch alignment tool or a large dowel and some tape to make one to get it all aligned again.
Well worth it while it's apart.

Can I just take the clutch cover off to see inside or do I need to worry about the position of parts etc before I do so?

I'm still confused about the clutch linkage. What I have looks the same as on the 'moss' and 'ESM spares' diagrams. When it was linked up it was pulling the clutch fork fully so I assume it was working as it should.

I don't understand why someone had put a large nut on it as a spacer. Is there a chance I could damage my clutch or gears if the linkage is dodgy?

where abouts on the linkage is the nut? with this information, it may be easier to tell. i ended up using a fishing rod rest to align my clutch, and the gearbox has gone back in, so, touch wood, it is ok.

The nut is on the relay rod (part number 65 on the diagram http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17074 )

I took a look inside my gearbox and it appears to be in good condition. The teeth on the gears look sharp and un-worn. Am I missing something or was it the clutch thats knackered all along?[frame][/frame]

a picture of where the nut is on the rod would help (me at least) to work out the reasoning for it being there.
- it may be there to compensate for the fouling you get when using a series 2 link rod, with a 1098 box (i know i've been there!)

it could be the clutch, and as previously stated, its worth inspecting it while the gearbox is out any way- the clutch is a wierd old thing, and it could be worn at the driven plate, or perhaps the thrust bearing.

I've got the clutch plate off and.....it looks like a clutch. As far as i'm aware.

Here's a photo and a photo of the nut on the rod.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]