Morris Minor Owners Club

Changing from hydraulic to mechanical clutch

I am changing out my smooth case transmission for a ribbed case from a MG midget. I have removed the plate that holds the throw out bearing to the transmission from the smooth case to the ribbed case so it can be a mechanical clutch instead of the MGs hydraulic. The only problem that I have is the two top holes on the plate do not line up with any studs or holes. All of the other holes line up. Can I install it this way or should I drill and tap the two holes for the studs??

The smooth case has lots of teeth missing so the switch is required.

I suppose so - no great strain on it - any chance of a picture or two ?

You need 1098 clutch forks and release bearing and the patent modification to the linkage. Can't remember if you need to change the gearbox front plate. Post a photo of the clutch housing end of the box and it will jog my memory.

The 948 and 1098 front covers have different fixing bolt configurations and different heights for the release arm pivot to suit the different clutches. When I fiited a ribcase box to the original 948 engine about 40 years ago, I did plug the 2 redundant holes and drilled/tapped 2 new ones to fit the original cover plate. But I think there are 2 versions of the carbon thrust and I think the 1275 version is deeper, so could work with the original 1098 cover plate and the 948 6 1/4" clutch?

The 918/803/948 all use the same clutch assembly and thrust. The 1098 thrust works on the 1098 and 1275. Also available is a 1098 thrust with a ball race which I think is more suited to the 1275 and does not wear so quickly with the higher release pressure of the diaphram assembly.
There is a conversion available that uses a 1098 box with an 803 tail section designed to keep the long lever which fits the 803 engine so therefore a standard 1098 box should fit the 948 engine which has the same backplate. I think that the pivot points on the 948 and 1098 forks are different so you will have to keep the front plate and the correct clutch forks together.

I have some pictures finally. I would like to keep the 948 fork and rod and I plan on getting a new pressure plate and clutch. The 948 pressure plate and fork is pictured, can I get a new 948 pressure plate/clutch or should/could I use a 1275?? The front cover shown in the pictures is from the smooth case now about to be on the ribbed case but you can see the the top two holes lin up with nothing, I could drill and tap or could I just use the rest of the bolts and a good sealer??
Thanks for all of the help, also are a couple of pictures of a Continental I just got, sold the Rolls. I know the Rolls is a much better car but parts for the Continental are very cheap and I had an offer on the Rolls I could not refuse.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][img]http://mmoc.org.uk[frame][img]http://mmoc.org.uk

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When you get to the release bearing ,there are several differant ones .
Maybe someone here knows,witch one to use for your clutch e t c.

Just stick with the clutch you have - the larger 1098 clutch certainly won't go on a 948 flywheel - i'm not sure about the Spridget one - but why bother? I would say it will be fine without these bolts fitted - but try it out - fill the box with oil (yes - seal the tail bearing with the prop shaft) and leave it overnight to see if anything leaks. When you assemble it all - try it out on the ground to ensure the clutch can release before fitting in the car.
And sorry - can't agree about that Continental..........

There apears to be an unused, tapped hole above the donor plate. Why not make up a clamping style adaptor plate to use that hole and clamp down over the 2 orphan holes in the donor plate?