Morris Minor Owners Club

... which, needless to say, I can't answer, but which has been bugging me!

"Dad, if you wanted to make your Moggie as long-lasting as possible, couldn't you take everything off the body shell, strip the whole body shell down to bare metal in one go, including the doors and bootlid and bonnet and everything, respray all the bits completely inside and out, stuff all the interior crevices with (waxoyl) some kind of gunk, then put it it all back together again?"

"Probably son, but it would cost the earth..."

You know what's coming next... "How much, and why don't you just save up until you've got that much, and do it all at once?"

Over to you lot....!

Indeed you can - and some do! The car is stripped down - then dipped in acid to reveal all the rot, this is then repaired with new panels and the shell then dipped in 'e' coat which is a rust preventive paint. Trubble is - it costs a FORTUNE. There was a 'new' bodyshell on ebay not so long ago - I was amazed it didn't sell - the price was very reasonable I thought!

Not really a 'fortune' The cost is about £2K, which spread over the realistic ,expected lifetime of the car would be equivalent to £100 per year.
The only downside to dipping and indeed any rust removal is that it cannot penetrate between 'sandwiched' welded sections, sothese areas will always be the weakest points. But as a process for almost full rust removal and protection afterwards its the best currently available.

...and the other downside is, obviously, discovering just how little metal there is that's solid ;)

Mind, mine wasn't dipped and we found quite enough! Wish I could have afforded it though, since it's an excellent process (having seen dipped shells, it's amazing how they look).

Would that £2k include all the rot replacement ? And - presumably is just for the bare shell ie no doors/bonnet/boot ?

Jeez BM, cha' just crack me up sometimes No , it wouldn't. A shell is officially main tub , bonnet,boot,wings and front panel, everything else is extra.

Not getting you Jon - so - for £2k, you DO NOT get the rotten parts replaced ? Just the old shell dipped in acid ??

bmcecosse wrote:Not getting you Jon - so - for £2k, you DO NOT get the rotten parts replaced ? Just the old shell dipped in acid ??

If it were a fixed price, you'd be able to pick up the nastiest beyond repair rustheap (probably free) and for for 2K get back a fully welded up, as new ecoated shell. Can't see that being viable as a business.

Well exactly - so need to know - what IS included in the suggested £2K ???

The acid dip is simply that, it will strip the body of everything except solid steel. We choose to have the car back after this initial dip, for the required letting in of new steel, we then return the chassis/panels for a clean up (quick acid dip) then the whole vehicle is treated to an E coat. ready for final shaping and paint processes.

And all that for £2K ??

All except for the welding and paint

Ahhhhhhhhh. Crikey!!

http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html

Here's a link to SPL's site and a video showing the pre and E coat system.
It is expensive , but the best on offer today if you want a total treatment for your restoration.

Ours is off there as soon as I can get 2 days off to trailer the shell up. IIRC, £695 for the acid dipping process (quite a lot involved, so it seems) and then another £895 to have it "E' coated". The wings, doors, panels etc are included, so it says in the price list they gave me. I justified the cost by not needing to repaint the car in 10 years' time. I know I could sandblast or wire-brush the underside and then slap a grands'-worth of paint on top, but this process is probably all I'll ever need to do to it before the grim reaper comes (for me, not the car)


Imagine the fun of having a dipped shell back and finding that you could simply start welding, rather than having to grind back first!!! I'm lucky that our shell was 99% clean steel and didn't need much welding. I saved £300 by getting any welding done in advance.

Make sure you drill plenty of holes, in the shell, if they have not said where them please do call me and I'll send some pics.
If filling always cut through to the steel first with a 36 grit flap disc or 40 grit D/A. Another no no , I hope they mentioned is not to use etch on the E coat as it can react badly.
Check all seams when you get the car back and seam seal as soon as possible.
I'm happy to help if you have a problem or need any advice, as we have done over half a dozen so far.