Morris Minor Owners Club

Can anyone tell me if it is difficult to change the two ( inner and outer ) bearings on the diff. I have changed the hub bearings, Do I need a press and what is meant by measuring the backlash. Or would it be wiser to let the pros do it.

The diff bearings should not usually need changing as they are running in oil. All the load is on the hub bearings. I took the diff out of my Traveller a few weeks ago with the intention of changing the bearings as it was noisy, tried removing the bearing cage without success and replaced the diff before I did any damage.I will get someone who knows what they are doing to look at it!!!!

Just fit another diff - they are cheap as chips. It's really not worth getting into these - unless perhaps a special ratio (3.9 or 3.7). The overhaul is all laid out in the workshop manual - but special gauges etc are really required - although it can be done by trail and error if you are really enthusiastic. As MP says -the bearings should pretty much last for ever. what's the problem with the diff ? What ratio do you have at present ?

I am not sure of the ratio where do I find it ?
The front seal was leaking so I took the axle in to work and got the front nut removed I flicked the old seal out and popped in a new one easy ! The problem was when I tried to put the flange back on the spline it was a little tight so I gave it a tap and it seems to have pushed the bearings back or they look if they have come apart.
If I was to split the diff could I push it all back into place and would it need setting up If not I was thinking of asking either bullmotif or charles ware to replace the bearings and if so can the diff be set up on its own or would they need the whole axle.
Cheers

I think if you tighten the nut - it will pull the bearings together - unless they have actually broken out of the cages? The ratio will be stamped on the diff crown gear. Anyone rebuilding would only need the diff. Be ware !! I hate to think what the cost would be....... Second hand diffs can be got for ~£10.

Where do I get a second hand diff for that price ?

i sold a diff on here for £10.00

Thanks for the help bmcecosse, I parted the diff from the axle to make sure I had not done any damage. I think the front bearing must be tapered and it had just moved. So I did as you said might have happened and the nut pulled it back into place. I will take it to work tomorrow and get it torqued to 140. At least its only going to cost me a gasket. The only numbers I could see were MOWOG BTA 5479/38- and stamped further round the wheel 314 001.

9/38 is the diff ratio = 4.22 (1098 diff)

Do you have an early or late diff as there is a difference in the pinion preload method
early ones are shimmed so wont be a problem & can be done up again if everything is the same.
late ones have a collapsible spacer which can only be used once & once disturbed will need replacing. if you torque it up on the old one the bearings could be overloaded

I cannot be sure if it is a early or late diff, I brought it along with the 1098 engine and gearbox to replace my 803 engine and running gear. It was in the car but I didn,t take notice of the age or reg of the car. Is there any way of telling if it is a early or late diff. I thought I had solved the problem and now another can of worms have been opened. Cheers

Does BTA 547 identify the diff?

I would just tighten the nut 'sensibly' - and check it's all free to rotate nicely, rather than torquing it up that tight - and maybe finding it won't rotate! Meantime - keep an eye open for another £10 4.22 diff!

I torqued the nut to 120 and everything still seems to move freely so I will have to wait until its in the car. I wonder how many people have changed the pinion seal on a later diff and not changed the collapsible spacer. It seems a costly way to change a seal if you went by the book. How do you know an early diff to a later one perhaps mike may be right with the numbers meaning something.

There is a list of diff types and numbers on this forum somewhere.